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I've done lots of these kind of fences,(although usually a bit more simple). I'd start the post layout based on where the holes land best around the big trees. Also, be picky about the wood- green cedar and PT will move a LOT if you get crummy stuff; the more ripped and/or small pieces especially. Seal the post tops right away but let the rest acclimate/dry for a few months before stain. I always trim the hog wire so I don't catch it where the wires overlap...
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I've done similar fences with what we called bull wire, the hog wire panels here do not have uniform spaces.

After doing many railings with the bull wire I quit using trim to hold the wire in place. Opting instead to router a groove in the post sides and the top/bottom of the 2x4 rails. Capped with a 2x6 cedar. Like mentioned above I drilled weep holes in the bottom 2x4 for drainage. Made for a very solid fence.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Our pressure treated is Hem Fir and the treatment seems painted on because it doesn’t go all the way through the board (we have to paint preservative on all cut edges)

The drilled track idea was my first idea, but I’d be drilling 7” holes that will clog up. I’ll relook that idea though.

The whole open sides idea came from the 6’ x 3’ pre made powder coated panels. When I divide the distance to get even post spacing, I had to create a way to make oversized panels that could be trimmed to fit and all end up within an inch or so of each other. I didn’t want to aim for exact panel to post spacing and then have a small filler panel somewhere.
And I can’t let my dog roam free so the spaced gap has to be less than 8”.

I was planning on 12’ black farm gates, but no one has those in 12’ around here. Green. Red. Or galvanized.
So then the one guy says he can order black in 14’.....so that changed things a bit.
I’m having some trees removed Monday that are dying and would destroy the new fence some day, so once that’s done I can dial in the precise post locations.
 

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Hem-fir is just one less thing to worry about. Probably all non,contact treated, so it's real shallow, as you say.

I've used white pine and brush on treatment before about 20 years ago and it's holding up, but it's stained.
 

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I don't drill holes. I either accept it's going to trap water, or I make the bottom rail system as 2 halves. It works way better with T&G than I suspect it would with the hog pen.
 

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Your hem fur is not pressure treated, it's soaked in troughs thus only a little penetration. Evidently yellow pine is one of few woods that will take pressure treatment.
 

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Your hem fur is not pressure treated, it's soaked in troughs thus only a little penetration. Evidently yellow pine is one of few woods that will take pressure treatment.
They can pressure treat just about anything.

Railroad cross ties could be out of oak, chestnut, SYP, or a bunch of others. Utility poles are cedar.

For best penetration, incising is done.

They're probably giving it the lightest treatment that meets spec. Not much penetration at all.
 

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Even incised pt needs the ends and cuts coated.

The pt treatment only goes a half inch in or so.

At least with Doug fir which is what we have here.

We used to get hem fir, but it sucked. Nearly always twisting and cracking.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
510482
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I was told that it’s better to use this kind of product than something that coats it with a polymer. At the end of the day it’s going to be a fence and not necessarily a work of art.

...and number 10 stainless steel wood screws sometimes snap when you use an impact driver. I have a love-hate relationship with stainless steel.

The can says ULTRA premium so I equate that to being mo betta.
510484
 

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Even incised pt needs the ends and cuts coated.

The pt treatment only goes a half inch in or so.

At least with Doug fir which is what we have here.

We used to get hem fir, but it sucked. Nearly always twisting and cracking.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
Also from what I've read the incisions create about a 10% loss of structural strength.


Mike.
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Discussion Starter #33
That machine is worth every cent. I left a couple for hand digging (too close to water and electrical). The rest are done. 36” deep. It’s wet down there. Ha, it’s wet most of the time all over this area.
 

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Wish that would work in my rock. Got 14 to dig. Do they make a rock hog. Wishful thinking. I know, they make 1 that weighs 90 pounds

Mike
 

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Wish that would work in my rock. Got 14 to dig. Do they make a rock hog. Wishful thinking. I know, they make 1 that weighs 90 pounds

Mike
I rented a 2 man auger and ran it by myself. It went real well until I hit a buried metal bed frame. I got beat up on that one.
 

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I’ve seen more than 1 buried to China in caliche & clay that were left there. Even in soft soil. People don’t realize it’s just a drill bit. Little in & back out —repeat. How’s the vole problem?
Mike
 

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I rented a 2 man auger and ran it by myself. It went real well until I hit a buried metal bed frame. I got beat up on that one.
I bought one from home depots tool rental. Used it then sold it for the 500 bucks I paid for it. Took up too much room to store.


Mike.
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I’ve seen more than 1 buried to China in caliche & clay that were left there. Even in soft soil. People don’t realize it’s just a drill bit. Little in & back out —repeat. How’s the vole problem?
Mike
They seem to be healthy. Tunnels are going inactive and others becoming active. Traps on order, that should be better.
 
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