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Timbertech deck

13K views 37 replies 21 participants last post by  KennMacMoragh  
#1 ·
My first experience with a composite deck. Tore up the old cedar deck and cantilevered new joists to make it four feet bigger.
 

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#7 ·
This was my design for it. I think the glass is embedded about 3" into the channel. It took a while to find a glass company confident in installing it. When I mention glass railing, most glass companies give me a blank look. I designed the connection with the help of the glass company. Specs from the glass supplier were kind of vague. It said "4x8 solid blocking anchored between floor joists W/(8) #10x3 screws at each end of rim joist." I read that a few times and it didn't make a lot of sense. Because we're concerned about wind pushing the glass and putting torque on the connection. Adding screws from the rim to the block won't do anything because there's already bolts holding those two together. The rail can still rip the block and rim away from the joists. I discussed this with my engineer and he agreed, the specs from the manufacturer were too vague. So I added Headlok screws from the rim to the joists.
 

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#10 ·
I don't think so because there's flashing and silicone covering it. The glass supplier gives you the mortar to use. They don't call it mortar, the call it something else that I can't remember. But they explained to me what it was, and it's the same thing as mortar. It's a finer granule cement, I think a type III cement is all it is. They don't mention epoxy, my guess is it would be too thick and wouldn't fill in all the gaps right. With the mortar, you set the glass in first, get everything aligned the way you want it, then pour in the mortar and it fills in all around it.

Here is a picture of the outside. The brown is flashing covering the aluminum channel.
 

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#11 ·
KennMacMoragh said:
I don't think so because there's flashing and silicone covering it. The glass supplier gives you the mortar to use. They don't call it mortar, the call it something else that I can't remember. But they explained to me what it was, and it's the same thing as mortar. It's a finer granule cement, I think a type III cement is all it is. They don't mention epoxy, my guess is it would be too thick and wouldn't fill in all the gaps right. With the mortar, you set the glass in first, get everything aligned the way you want it, then pour in the mortar and it fills in all around it. Here is a picture of the outside. The brown is flashing covering the aluminum channel.

That's a tidy install. There's some sweet places where that glass could work on decks in this area.
 
#15 ·
Cool deck! We have done the crl channel on an interior before. I believe it is a hydraulic cement of some kind. They have a wedge lok system now that doesn't need the cement. That look is great.

Is the Vycor on the joists required or do you just do that for extra protection?
 
#16 ·
Is the Vycor on the joists required or do you just do that for extra protection?
It's not a code requirement, I put it on the doublers so water doesn't get between them. Even when I tore up this deck, where ever there was two members nailed together, the treated wood was rotted and falling apart.
 
#18 ·
Well, it's treated with this stuff http://www.easyclean10.com/ So it shouldn't have to be cleaned very often. I noticed cleaning with a squeegee is difficult because you can't squeegee from the top down with a standard window squeegee. I think they need to find a squeegee that's angled the other way so they can squeegee it down instead of up.

And it's not really that high, about 20 feet. You can see over the trees because the house is on a steep hill.
 
#19 · (Edited)
Is there any testing or icc-esr paperwork that comes with the hardware? There's no way I could get that approved without some engineers stamp and the proper testing that's required in an icc-esr report. I can get glass rails approved all day long if it's stopped on all four sides. If it's not stopped on all sides it requires an icc-esr.

It's a bitchin look that's for certain.