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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Rental townhouse, low budget. I have two small bathroom floors with glued asbestos 12x12's onto the subfloor (1976 original) w/ cutback, I think. Floors will be getting 12x12 ceramic. The carpeting outside the bathrooms is higher, given the pad/carpet combo. What do you guys typically do with these? Add a layer of ply/ditra or ply/durock, etc., or do something else?
 

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Rental townhouse, low budget. I have two small bathroom floors with glued asbestos 12x12's onto the subfloor (1976 original) w/ cutback, I think. Floors will be getting 12x12 ceramic. The carpeting outside the bathrooms is higher, given the pad/carpet combo. What do you guys typically do with these? Add a layer of ply/ditra or ply/durock, etc., or do something else?
They pop up really easy.:whistling
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Unfortunately not. These things are tearing the ply. Maybe it's not cutback, but it's a strong bond...you had to add the whistle, eh? :)
 

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Hair Splitter
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seems a little overkill. Why not just screw down cbu and tile it?
Why would the recommended installation method be overkill. You should always thinset your backerboard to the substrate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Thanks everybody. Some varied responses, for sure. I suppose I can add cbu, but only if I thinset underneath (thinset & screw), except that I never applied thinset to vct. Is that done? Like I said, this tile is stuck on really well. It's so good that they used the same stuff in all bathrooms and the kitchen.

So instead, I figure I might first just screw some 1/2 ply, then work up from that (1/4" hardibacker, thinset & screwed)

As for the ecoprim...that's tempting. I'll have to look into that as far as vct goes.
EDIT: I'll be darned...is says that it CAN be used over vct!

Thanks again.
 

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EDIT: I'll be darned...is says that it CAN be used over vct!
Problem is, if it's asbestos tile, it's not VCT (Vinyl Composite Tile), it's VAT (Vinyl Asbestos Tile) I don't know if that would make a difference. But how do you know it's VAT? Generally, VAT is 9"X9".
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Problem is, if it's asbestos tile, it's not VCT (Vinyl Composite Tile), it's VAT (Vinyl Asbestos Tile) I don't know if that would make a difference. But how do you know it's VAT? Generally, VAT is 9"X9".
Owner says his inspector says it's "likely to contain", but it looks like embossed vct to me. But the adhesive is black. Then owner then had it tested, and it came back positive in one room, but not another...yet it's the same stuff everywhere! Go figure. I'm just going to bury it, one way or the other. (No, it's not like the 9x9's often found in basements.)
 

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Particulate Filter
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Why would the recommended installation method be overkill. You should always thinset your backerboard to the substrate.
I was referring to the layer of plywood. Yez, its appropriate to thinset under bb. Ive never done it and never had a call back. I always screw every six inches.
 

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Hair Splitter
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I was referring to the layer of plywood. Yez, its appropriate to thinset under bb. Ive never done it and never had a call back. I always screw every six inches.
The thinset serves a few purposes. Bonding and void filling. It also voids the warranty.

I would count the success of incorrect installation as success but rather count it as fortunate that you haven't had issues.

It's also a fallacy to think that because you haven't heard about an issue that there hasn't been one. I just looked at a four year old shower that needs to be rebuilt and she didn't let the original contractor know. She said if he screwed it up that bad on the first time, she didn't want him back to attempt a repair.
 

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Paul
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Ive never done it and never had a call back. I always screw every six inches.
You fail to understand the purpose and how a cbu is supposed to work. Without a bedding mortar, more screws accomplishes nothing - actually it makes the assembly worse...
 

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Thinset isn't to hold stuff down. It's to hold it up. Tile is all about support.

I'd do 1/4 inch CBU and call it a day.

BTW: Cutback also had asbestos in it, so even if it's vct, you've still got the dreaded asbestos in your sandwich. I sanded up more asbestos than I care to remember with an edger back before scumbag lawyers turned into a cottage industry. I'm sure I'll die any second now. hehe
 

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And if 1/4" ply or luan was used, that needs to come out also. cement boards have a sticker on it staying to embed their product in a thin set mortar. Follow the manufactures instructions or risk voiding the warranty. I've torn out a lot of floors due to the fact there wasn't thin set under the cement boards.
 

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Ever try explaining that to a "veteran" tile guy? I've met plenty who use Liguid Nails under Hardi so as to keep all these thousands of pounds of tile, mortar and grout from flying into the sky. The lack of understanding is depressing.
 
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