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Run!, Forest Run!

Even IF you do fix it, will it EVER pay you for the risks you took? I.e. the same amount of labor and cash could fix five other old buildings with out crappy framing......

That is catnip to the permit authorities, they could milk you like a porn star, then deny a occupancy permit, because it STILL doesn't meet today's or the code in effect when built......

Would You loan the owner money from YOUR pension fund?

Some old buildings need to torn down prior to killing their inhabitants.
This isn't accurate or good business. A contractor isn't responsible for hidden conditions.
Anyone who works on old homes is going to find things like this, they have to be repaired by someone, why not the guy who's already there? It's a valid extra. You determine a proper repair, if you can't then you get an engineer involved. Once you have an understanding of what needs to be done you write up a change order.
Simply saying "I can't do this" and walking away is bush league. You're a professional builder, and if you're remodeling you're also a problem solver. If you're neither of those you have no business starting the job to begin with.
 

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Run!, Forest Run!

Even IF you do fix it, will it EVER pay you for the risks you took? I.e. the same amount of labor and cash could fix five other old buildings with out crappy framing......

That is catnip to the permit authorities, they could milk you like a porn star, then deny a occupancy permit, because it STILL doesn't meet today's or the code in effect when built......

Would You loan the owner money from YOUR pension fund?

Some old buildings need to torn down prior to killing their inhabitants.
You better stay working on new houses if you think this needs to be torn down. This is fairly common it 60 plus year old houses.
 

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Run!, Forest Run!

Even IF you do fix it, will it EVER pay you for the risks you took? I.e. the same amount of labor and cash could fix five other old buildings with out crappy framing......

That is catnip to the permit authorities, they could milk you like a porn star, then deny a occupancy permit, because it STILL doesn't meet today's or the code in effect when built......

Would You loan the owner money from YOUR pension fund?

Some old buildings need to torn down prior to killing their inhabitants.
Jeez man. You are something else. Blather, blather, blather. Changed your name and same old song.

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Treat it like a clients or like you really care . If this was me -I need so much more info .This looks like I would be best to tear ,rip and open till I really have a handle on the problem .Your comment on the slopped floor on first floor and fixing it latter .that's scary. 1st floor gets fixed first . there is a tendency to cut corners - do not do it .
 

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Lag bolts? Custom hangers? Leave em alone?

This is a second floor, back supporting wall above, no wall below. 1st floor goes another 5 feet back. Loosely 'sistered' joists span those 5 feet. 'Beam' and sill plate above and perpendicular to joists spans about 10 feet across. View attachment 516209

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It has lasted this long. LOL! I might use like Simpson A35 from the bottom plate to the side of the joists, then sheet the one side of the wall with 1/2 cdx to make it a box beam-ish. Then some common 20 penny nails though the lap joint. Really I would ask an engineer friend or something. Or solid block between the joist and then sheet vertical wall with 1/2 cdx. Just anything to help that wall act like a beam and then attach the joist to the "beam."
 

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You better stay working on new houses if you think this needs to be torn down. This is fairly common it 60 plus year old houses.
You can apply pressure and heat to a turd for a few million years and end up with a dollar's worth of industrial diamonds.... Carry On.
 

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Lag bolts? Custom hangers? Leave em alone?

This is a second floor, back supporting wall above, no wall below. 1st floor goes another 5 feet back. Loosely 'sistered' joists span those 5 feet. 'Beam' and sill plate above and perpendicular to joists spans about 10 feet across. View attachment 516209

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#1 buy a good liability policy.
#2 take $ 500 out of you “profit” and buy a structural engineers time to help you with the structure
#3 repair according to the engineers design recommendations/sketch
 
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