I can't help but wonder what all those 8" pieces of finger-jointed poplar are going to look like in 30 years. Instead of wondering about getting a little faster I'd be looking at things like the dog-leg panels and window relationships.

 

30 years? If the FJ they use around these parts is any indication, I give it 5 to 10 years...

 

Kreg Framing Table, Ritter or Dotul frame racks.

Tom

 

Time to invest in a bunch of t-track and Kreg bench clamps, Spencer.

 

I often work in poorly built tract homes here in California, and mostly with ****tty supplied to me, MDF millwork...I should kill myself...

 

I damn near pee myself if I get to a job that has VG Doug fir.
Everything else is MDF around here... But I'm slowly getting out of that market, and I believe Spencer is too.
As far as the corrugated gun goes.... Spencer, you just want another toy😁
Don't you have a Dominio? I figured you'd be doing your Wainscot and frames with that.
Or if you're looking for speed, why not a biscuit /domino with a single Kreg screw for clamping?

 

OK Spencer, this is me lighting up.

If you continue to do what you are doing then that is what you will be known for and that is what you will do so quite a while. If that is what puts dinner on the table I fully understand that. You want to be fast, that is a good goal but you haven't put in the time to study where the design comes from. If you don't know the roots of Architectural design then what you produce will reflect that. Regardless of the quality of the materials you have to work with it is up to the craftsman to know what is correct. If you are interested in learning that there are several books which I and others can suggest, if not then well then....

 

i think you are right about having nothing more to add..

 

Get Your House Right is a good read...

 

I would love to work with some finger joint poplar.

You guy's don't know how good you have it until EVERYTHING is MDF. Even million dollar homes.

 

That's because it's MillionDollarFiberboard...:laughing:

 

I think the gun could work but you'll still have the hassle of alignment and keeping it flat. Biscuit or domino could be best bet. As far fingers joint in - 5 years.. it is what is. New construction homes need a face lift usually with in 5-7 years. Settlement, crack shrinkage etc...and repaint for sure because 95% of the painter's are not paid enough or too dumb to better a job the first time around. Spence your on the right track. You're Just looking for a better way. I don't see what the hassle is about. He's just a soldier following order's. Im sure if he or any of you were doing your own house(s) or flips it becomes another animal.
I would probably try and find to rent or buy from vendor that takes returns just in case. Clearly no here has done this before. So do a sample in your shop with the 8" fingers joint an see what happens.

 

Clearly no here has done this before.

There's one that uses them on cabinets, but I don't remember his user name.:sad:

 

I think a corrugated stapler is fine for this application. The frame is going to straightened, squared, and evened when it's fastened to the wall. Glue the joints and staple. Once it's secured to the wall what's the problem.

 

Keith has a good point. If he put in a little time reading up, we wouldn't get 21 questions everyday either.

It's a fine line between correct and what is told to do.

I believe that is a spec house. With a little bit of forethought, rooms like that could be laid out before hand, measuments taken, stuff made off site and then brought in and a room put together in a day that looks right.

Some of those outlets will be buried in a stile.

Plus all those 3/4" dust shelves will really irritate whoever has to clean.

FJ poplar screams cheap in Northern indiana, I know what it costs, how it mills and what it looks like in time. For a few penny's more, give me regular old poplar.

I guess I am saying that even though it may look like the builder is classing the place up, that is some of the cheapest stuff you can get.

I don't really care for the hurry up and be cheap for me game they play either. Because I know what they are making off me.

Sorry, I rambled for a few.

 

though it may look like the builder is classing the place up, that is some of the cheapest stuff you can get.

and who wants to hear that other than us in the trades?

 

So if a guy told you to put in cardboard countertops with 4" overhangs you would do it ?
You are forming your reputation everyday.
In 3 or 4 years when every FJ seam is showing every design flaw has now been observed for the last 4 years, people will be asking "who did this ?" and not know why it was done that way. Just that it does not look good after 4 years.

 

they may ***** in for years but no one will know spencer is. They'll say the builder was cheap fk. It's like when there is hot/cold spots in the house because of poor layout in duct work no body know who installed it again they'll say the builder / developer did it. Not Joe hvac sub.

 

Spencer's customer is the GC, period. The HO is a stakeholder, and the paint guys would be stakeholders, too. Customer says FJ poplar, FJ poplar it is.

The skill set he's developing translates to other installs - he gets to be paid for learning. I'm all for it.

I'm calling out you guys that don't think you should help someone learn just because they're using FJ poplar, FJ pine, or MDF. There are a bazillion very expensive custom builds around Dallas using very ornate MDF moulding on everything. The customers truly don't care, they want it to look good painted.

It's Spencer's problem to figure out how to market his skills in his location, although I know he appreciates advice in this area.

 

I'm calling out you guys that don't think you should help someone learn just because they're using FJ poplar, FJ pine, or MDF.

That's fine by me. It's going to look like crap in 3 to 5 years anyway. Like was already said, who cares you can do it again. Just imagine it everywhere in an entire house....

The who cares, we can throw it away and do it again mind set is something I choose not to participate in. Not my thing.

 

Doesn't Justin H use one?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

BTW, there is some stuff that's like cardboard counter tops - some kind of greenie thing.

 

You can use corrugated fasteners in wood but it tends to split in end grain or parallel grain. Pocket screws work better

 

My God, some of you gyys get butt hurt really easily. Pull the tampon out and make it happen, captain.

 

Wainscoting is time consuming. The foreman is a huge advantage but it still seems like there has got to be a way to get the stuff together faster.

Any experience in poplar? Splitting an issue?.................

................They are expensive tools and so is a box of fasteners but I'd really like to give it a try.

Spencer,

I have a Senco that I used maybe once, bought it new years ago.

If you want to try one out before buying one, I'll be more than happy to send it to you.

If I remember correctly, fastener length was critical, as well as placement to avoid splitting. I may have some fasteners too, I'll dig around if you are interested.

 

That is what I am afraid of. It takes a good chunk of time to layout and cut all the pieces of a long wall like the photos in my OP. I can just see getting to the last piece and splitting the thing, ruining the whole thing. That would be a bad deal. Wasted materials and time. :no:

 

A lot of big internet balls would shrivel right the f**k up if people were standing in the same room. Just sayin...

 

I may be a bigger dick in person.

I try to keep it consistent.

 

Spencer, my brother runs a Senclamp, and enjoys it. Not a full blown corrugated, but according to him, works well. He's mostly doing cabs, PM him is username is jbalm. He doesn't get on here as much as I do.

I have to agree with Keith and you all at the same time. I understand the production, but I've always tried to stay ahead of the game and suggest layouts and such to the builder prior to install. Most of the time they have come to respect the knowledge and have come around. But I've also put in what the customer wanted even if I didn't agree with the design.


Service Exceeding Expectation

 

I'd say we are in similar situations. Its something you have to tread carefully with, some suggestions for improvements are welcome in moderation but it could quickly get annoying to the builder or HO. Bottom line in the end is that the customer gets what they want and we do our best to save them from themselves at times.

What is your standard procedure with wainscoting? I can't remember if you mostly use MDF in your region or what is standard?

I'd say its very common here for trim subs to run rails 3/4 and then plane down the stiles to avoid using any joinery. It is what it is.

I'm working on price lists for different things with options for different looks. Obviously running all 3/4 and pocket screwing is on the more expensive end and I'd like to have a more budget friendly option. Apart from using a corrugated faster of some type I don't know how I could really improve my time on the standard 3/4 wainscoting.

 

I think the important question here is:

-WWTD?

What would tipitop do?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

FJ poplar all the way

 

Done a lot of mdf build on the wall, incorporate casing as stiles. In that application I run a 1/4 dado on all the rails and stiles about a fat 1/16 off the wall. Then I can just slide the 1/4 in from the top. This style I have always just used eased edges at all intersections. If they want flush, I'll cut the wainscot panels out of a sheet of mdf, no cracks.

Nicer wainscot gets solid wood frames, pocket screws, and rabbet out for the back panel. I like to bump out under windows (like Justin), and have used everything from pilasters to backbands to casing leg incorporation. Depends on style.


Service Exceeding Expectation

 

Good grief.

 

Found it!

Senco SC2

Also 95% full box 1/2" fasteners

I remember thinking that I wanted to try the 3/8" and 1/4" because I did get some splitting, but I never had use for it again.

Anyway, send me a pm if you want to try it.

Not trying to sell it, no obligation.

 

If the builder is just small potatoes, and not a large production builder, I would definitely speak up. If you know how to do it better without adding much to the cost, he would be a fool not to listen. lot of homeowners don't know any better, and a lot of builders don't either. Obviously, you don't want to get the rep as difficult to work with, but you also don't want to be just the sheep either.