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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am interested in using it for our future house. We are going to use fiber cement siding and i am doing the cabinets. Wondering on the cost? If it comes in precut lengths? If it splits when nailing? Thanks ahead:thumbsup:
 

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I have never even seen one, sounds like it would be a biatch to nail, might be heavy, would not want to get it wet, but they might be straight, i am interested to hear from anyone who has used them, GMOD
 

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KemoSabe
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Years ago, one of the local yards was pushing Timberstrand floor joists. We used them on one house. They were nice and straight, but we wrecked two guns nailing off the floor. They were extremely hard to nail into. I'd assume TS studs will be similarly difficult.
 

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For sure Loneframer. I worked for a contractor and we were framing interior walls like 16' high or something. They used them in the whole house and they are gorgeously straight but oh its miserable nailing or screwing into them.

Normally Cordless Paslodes will drive a spike into anything but they come up 1/2" short into those things. They are a little better on the 1 1/2" side but if you think you'll get around nailing with screwing your just going to snap screws off left and right.

Pros: THey are straight and you can get them in rather long lengths, i think the skid we had to get was 18 footers

Cons: Wicked hard to nail/screw too and i believe they were about 4 times the cost of dimensional lumber.
 

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Here they run about 3 times as much. I concur on the difficulty working with them. We use them in critical areas like elevator shafts because they are very stable even as the house dries out and settles in.
 

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hurtlocker
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I use them on walls over 12'-14' depending on my mood
They cost much more
Siding or sheetrock is not bad because you are fastening between plys
Nailing them together on the other hand:no:(through the plys)
A lot of the nails need to to be finished of with the old hammer
My yard keeps a handfull on hand
Most of the time I think they are cut after you order
when you get to 16' and over they are not always straight either
 

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KemoSabe
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Look into LVLs, at least you can nail into them. We've used them for long studs in the past.
 

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You think you could rip the Lvl's down to a manageable stud size? Get 3 or 4 outta one? Would it be cost effective?
 

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hurtlocker
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I try to check all the studs before Mechanicals start
And once before I rock

Or you can put a few bad ones from the start then you Don't have to worry about it
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I go around with an 8' level but focus more on where the counter tops or chair rail will be. I have more trouble straightening with the ones that warp in.
 

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Zimmermann
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Framed a wall 19' high by 10' wide with them, and like everybody else said we had a hell of a time fastening them. Eventually my helper drilled pilots and I hand nailed it together. Not a solution for a larger framing project.

Could probably use these without splitting (maybe?).Ever since I started using these fasteners with engineered lumber I havent found anything better.

http://www.fastenmaster.com/product.aspx?currentPage=1&catID=5&prodID=6
 

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topsail's trimcat
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its been a couple years since ive used the timberstrand studs, but we 2x8 ts for tall walls in the ext wall in gable end of 2 storey great rooms.

our paslode air guns wouldnt sink, the gas gun wouldnt sink, tried another brand of air that didnt sink so we hand nails everything with common spikes and it was a bastard of a job. the newest paslode is supposed to sink into it along with hitachi but havent tried them. this summer might be framing a 14,000 ft house with some tall walls, ill find out then

as for cost 2x8x 20' was roughly $80 if mememory serves correct. t
 
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