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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For those not familiar with the author,Joe Stiburek of Building Science Corp. over the past 15 or more years he was a frequent contributor of articles in both FineHome Building & JLC.

With that said,it is interesting to note there has been a pronounced about face in Joe's mindset as to the "Perfect Wall".For those who have followed his articles over those many years one will quickly recognize that mindset change.

While the 1,000 year house thread is still current,I thought this article would be a good companion .

Anyway,thought you would enjoy the read.

http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/insights/bsi-001-the-perfect-wall
 

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I built my house walls like it shows in figure 5 excluding the metal channel and drywall. I floated all the joints smooth and plan on putting some kind of texture coat on it. The reason for that I want to take advantage of the thermal mass on the inside.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I built my house walls like it shows in figure 5 excluding the metal channel and drywall. I floated all the joints smooth and plan on putting some kind of texture coat on it. The reason for that I want to take advantage of the thermal mass on the inside.



That is better yet,having no interruption / break between conditioned space and the thermal mass. :thumbsup::thumbsup:



I did a few like that myself,I used a two coat veneer plaster. Cannot remember what company made the product,it was either Gold Bond or U.S. Gypsum. All the interior partitions I hung their special blue board (which really looks gray) and applied the same two coat veneer plaster.


On the exterior walls had the sparkys run conduit as the masonry block was laid.
 

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Striburek's ideas use the tech and materials available, MFA uses crude method,(triple Wythe walls without any air cavity or insulation, and no rain curtain)= silly. The inside of those always damp walls(where is the damp-proof flashing?????? Drip edges? Weather courses? plan on dehumidifiers in every corner of the dungeon/basement. When the Grid has failed for 5 years+(like in Sarajevo) will the basement footings heave in the winter?

Why not CMUs with stainless rebar(no rust explosion) or even AAC block with a stainless skeleton? where the brick don't show-cheaper, faster, stronger, and larger rooms.

Love the imported? masons. can I replace the AIA member with an import to save 3% of the gross costs on the next project I'm on? tit for tat?

Thermal mass is a no-brainer, I laugh every time I see an ICF basement(and its a fire/smoke hazard) or the inside furred out on a exterior masonry wall, more silliness.
 
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