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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Any of you guys have a cool trick for cutting toilets off the floor? I use a folding pocket knife style hacksaw that takes a sawzall blade unless I know they're throwing the toilet away. If I'm trashing the toilet, I just use an angle grinder.

I wonder if I could get a Fein tool blade that would work.

Whatsay?

Thanks in advance,
Chuck.
 

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Head Light Bulb Changer
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I'm assuming you mean when the crapper is either caulked down or the floor finish has glued it down? If so, This is what I use on a Fein. They work good for scraping a lot of things, too.
 

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I'm assuming you mean when the crapper is either caulked down or the floor finish has glued it down? If so, This is what I use on a Fein. They work good for scraping a lot of things, too.
I nominate dull e-cut blades. I use my hack-zawl for lots of stuff, so probably would do the trick (and maybe even with long, dull blades, too).
 

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Paul
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Chuck, I have a little diamond blade that was made for a Dremel. I think it's only an inch or so in diameter. It came in a big box of dremel crap I bought at a pawn shop one time. I chuck it up in my rotozip and it cuts bolts like butter. Doesn't spew molten brass slag all over like a grinder either.
 

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The Ultimate Wire Hider
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I've used bolt cutters before. I just cut right through the nut at whatever angle I can get a good grip and once the nut is cracked, I can use channel locks or vice grips to pop it off.
 

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Sometimes I'll use needle nose on the bolt to unscrew , then from under the bolt to hold and unscrew, also the flat bars with the 90 degree angle end to apply pressure under the washer while unscrewing.
The fein long life blade would work fine , thing is the material cutting can't be allowed to move with the tool otherwise it's vibrating with it.
So many problems from these flanges, usually cracked bolt retainer. Inferior design IMO . One of mine rocks and the other vinyl is mildewed underneath due to wax seal leak. Where's my motivation at?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the feedback. If there is Fein blade that will do it, that makes the most sense to me. I do like the idea of a bolt cutter/ nut buster sort of deal, though. I remember seeing a tool that mechanics use that actually spits a nut in two. Hmm.

For what it's worth, one trick I have is when a toilet bolt wants to spin on you, but it's not a super nasty deal where there's no hope, I just push the commode sideways so that it rises up under the stubborn nut and it gives just enough leverage to get the nut off.
 

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Thanks for the feedback. If there is Fein blade that will do it, that makes the most sense to me. I do like the idea of a bolt cutter/ nut buster sort of deal, though. I remember seeing a tool that mechanics use that actually spits a nut in two. Hmm.

For what it's worth, one trick I have is when a toilet bolt wants to spin on you, but it's not a super nasty deal where there's no hope, I just push the commode sideways so that it rises up under the stubborn nut and it gives just enough leverage to get the nut off.
Fein makes plenty metal blades and their metal/wood blade is awesome and really the only blade buy.

cuts though nails/metal like butter.
 

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I bought a nut buster, took a while to find , I think I got it at auto zone but it was kinda limited to get into the area I needed it to, so I returned it.
Needle nose under the nut will work when the top threads were mangled from bolt cutters if you have the room , or a small pry bar under washer.
 

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not directly to anyones post.

I used to be a hot shot..would disconnect and reconnect peoples appliances, dishwashers to get floor under , hardwired or not,
take toilets off, disconnect radiators.

my older age and wisdom now tells me this.

my time is valuable. I am not a plumber nor equipped to be a plumber. trying to be a plumber costs me more money then not trying to be a plumber.
when i disconnect a radiator/appliance they leak 90 % of the time. Now its my time, my dime, my loss. I have to run to home center ,buy he wrong pieces. then run back again or over spend trying to cover all bases.

I have now lost at least an hour minimum.

Now I am fixing a bad valve/pipe so the job I contracted can proceed smoothly as planned.....21/2 hours later unpaid because hey..i did it right?mt might idea to play hero floor guy ate and lost all to playing plumber.

yes I have done all this.

now its alot easier to say.. Fridge/toilet/dishwasher/washing machine etc needs to be disconnected by yourself, handyman, appliance guy/plumber of choice and reconnected when I am done.
not my expense, problem or issue..
all on you Mr HO.

if someone else wants to play hero..by all means have at it
 

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Head Light Bulb Changer
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If stuff has to be moved, I charge for it (and it ain't cheap :no:). You want to move it? Knock yourself out, but don't ask me to borrow any tools to do it. I put enough in my price for a run to the hardware store, because chit always happens. Plus I keep basic plumbing items in my truck for things like capping a leaking water or gas line. IMO, putting the onus on the HO (builders are different) to have multiple trades (plumber, electrician, moving co) moving stuff doesn't make good business sense to me. Besides, by having them schedule multiple people, they will be paying a premium price that can knock the price of the entire job out of their reach.

And to the OP - I thought you were talking about caulked down crappers. A month ago I had to replace 3 toilets that were caulked down to the floor :censored:. For bolts, it depends, but I usually use a small bolt cutter (if the toilet gets re-used).
 

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Shelby

what works for you is great.

You will be surprised how many people understand..especially stoves and gas.

itell them I like to sleep at night.

I am a floor guy, with various capabilities.

Can I do it? sure.
but why put that headache on myself?

For myself it aint worth it and they get it.

Last Kitchen bath laundry FR job we did had tile removed etc.

i told them they needed a plumber to prepare the job.
every sink, water line to washer, fridge etc leaked at disconnect.he had to replace everyone.

if I did that part of it I would have lost my mind.

Imagine a gas line slow leaking..people sleeping there at night

I will stick to my decisions to no longer deal with that.

if it costs me a job than it wasn't my job to begin with.
 

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Did a tile removal job last week with gas stove, the e mailed pictures I told them we don't dis/connect gas stoves. I think the homeowner disconnected it , I'm not even comfortable with them doing it, we put the bowls back, the supply lines are plastic and they have to set new tile, so the lines will get replaced along with wax seals.
 

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I don't do any plumbing or electrical. What if the water line in an old house breaks back under the floor somewhere? Are you crawling under there to fix it? Worse yet, what if it's a slow leak and you don't see it? A slow leak under my house could ruin an $800 panel on the HVAC.
I didn't get paid on a job once where I unplugged an electric stove and fire shot out of the box. I refused to plug it back in. (the tenant was in a wheelchair) . No way was I going to be responsible for her getting trapped in a house fire.
I have a deal with the local plumbers and electricians, they don't do flooring and I don't do plumbing and electrical. And I know how, I plumbed and rewired my whole house.
 
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