Actually, it looks from the picture that you have enough material to get it flat (un-clamped)
That all became so obvious as I worked on the second one.You're hosed on your pringle piece. You just have to do the best you can. Normally these would be cut extra thick, air dried (as was done). Then you flatten the back first, but you don't clamp it flat - it'll just spring back. Flip it over and do the front, again, not clamped flat.
One thing that may be helpful to you is stabilizing the wood. It's done with things like burl bowls and such, but it's not my thing, so research away. My recollection is it's things like ethylene glycol or glycerine. It MAY be possible to not allow for much movement if it's stabilized - pure speculation on my part.
Here?Robie said:People have been making these for centuries. What's the problem here?:laughing:
Those look very nice.I was a lillte late to the thread but hope you finished the bottom of the slabs the same as the top.Could have given you some pointers on attaching the tops to the apron without any metal involved and allowing movement.
Still fine looking tables.
Should be OK.To my great chagrin....they exclude shellac as a suitable undercoat.
As I had already removed all the shellac from the tops.....of the tops, and the bases were bare wood....I was cool. But there was no way I was going to get the 7 coats of shellac off those barely sanded undersides without $350 worth of abrasives and 2 years off of my life (favor for a client.....not so much scratch in it).
So......I caved.....put another 4 coats of shellac on the undersides and what turned out to be 5 really good coats (4 varnish, 1 urethane) on the topside.
Give it to me straight......am I phucked?
Definitely....Should be OK.
I'll have to check out Cabot spar varnish to see what's magical about it...
Well.....I don't like them.