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Table Saw Millwork Thread

14K views 41 replies 14 participants last post by  basswood 
#1 ·
So yesterday I did some router table millwork... today was the table saws turn. I milled up 126' of 5" stepped casing for a Victorian. This job will related to several threads as this casing will be Jack-Mitered and Backbanded and will have a cabinet head crown too.

This casing was made with one pass on the table saw, followed by a router table pass, and then 3 passes through the table saw on edge. Tomorrow I will ease the corners on the steps with a sanding and will hog out a relief cut on the back of the casing with the dado head.
 

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#3 ·
Otay.

The smooth faces on the steps have not been sanded. I used a Freud Glueline Rip blade it produces very smooth cuts... great for this millwork application. The blade produces ribbons like this that are paper thin and uber-smooth. Also here is a pic with a couple of steps cut and one of the pile ready for easing of the step corners.

I'll check in later... off on a bike ride.:scooter:
 

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#15 ·
Thanks Chris, I like Norm.:thumbsup:

Here are a couple of pics of the "relief cut" set-up... I was dialing in the layout and depth... the shallower cut (3/32") is what I went with. It took 4 passes, but only two set-ups--run--flip end for end and rerun--move fence 3/4"--repeat. Making these shallow and wide dados in this set of millwork took one hour.
 

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#10 ·
I cut it three times and it's still to short :laughing:
 
#16 ·
Another new saw blade,3 dozen spring clamps--:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing:

Can I order all these toys through you so you get the commission?:thumbup:
Mike the clamps and the Glueline Rip blades are worth the money... I wish I got a commission on the few products I recommend... I need to get my own website and start getting some ads on there. I spend enough time sharing ideas... would be nice to get something for it somehow.

The good blade helps, but the featherboards are the key. A few times I failed to keep the boards tight to the table and got bumps in the step line. I re-ran and couple that I noticed, but this one I missed and the saw was switched to the dado head... so I got out my straight-edge and utility knife and just fixed it... took just a few seconds to shave it back to the line:
 

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#13 ·
Stop using the 1" mark for your exact measurements. Use the 10" line, if you screw up by 10" you deserve to have to remake it. :laughing:
 
#17 ·
How much time you got into them moldings Bass? A 2 1/2" cutter for my W&H costs about $80 and you could run a 10' length in about 1 minute the way I have it setup.
 
#18 ·
1 hour ripping random lumber to 4-3/4"
1 hour set-up
4 hours milling faces
1 hour plowing out backs
3 hours sanding, etc.

10 hours total x $60/hr = $600 labor
Material: = $150 wood
Total: $750 or 5.95/lf for custom 5" casing... seems fair to me.:blink:

I think the mill wanted a couple hundred for knives and set up and it was going the be a wash so I just did it... work being scarce and all... or so I hear. For any larger run than this a shaper and power feed or W&H would be nice... but you know me... I still used a folding rule today.:jester:
 

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#19 · (Edited)
$80 for cutters
$150 for wood add 15% $173
1 hour to size blanks $
1 hour to hog out back $
$1.69/lf to run using my formula (125') $211 about 15 minutes to run.
1 hour to sand, maybe $

$465.00 using 3 hours 15 minutes time.

$3.72/ft

But of course that doesn't include the W&H setup which is about $2500

Usually if I am running mote than 50' of something I want to make a W&H cutter.
 
#21 ·
What the heck are you using a saw for. Hand planes, hand planes. Start with rough wood, hand plane it to thickness. cut it with a hand saw for a straight edge, then a jointers plane, then a few rabbet planes and a beading plane. Should take you about 24 hours......Think about the billable hours!!!!
 
#28 ·
That would be cool with me... if the customer will pay for it.

In this case, I used the tools I have. The customer asks, "Can you do this?" I say, "You bet." Then I figure out how to do it.:laughing:

I've added the Unisaw, Bandsaw, and Spindle sander to the shop in the last year or two. Shaper or molder are on the short list... but I got hit by that flooding we had here and have had to dump money and time into recovering from that fiasco.

Cheers,

Bass
 
#27 ·
I Love it bass! You do your work like me, always the hard way. Lol... The most common quote I get is "you built that in here!" I ran 2000' of art deco base 3 months ago on my table saw and with a hand router. My arm was numb by the time I finished. Stupid maybe but 16 hours of billing. :thumbsup:
 
#31 ·
that reminds me of the stair mosing I made with a dado blade. dadoing 4" wide 1/4" deep from the bottom of 170' of hickory was not fun with a hybrid table saw :censored:

especially when my friend saw the product and said I can use his shaper whenever I want to save myself some time :censored:

live and learn, or just bill for it :)
 
#33 ·
that reminds me of the stair mosing I made with a dado blade. dadoing 4" wide 1/4" deep from the bottom of 170' of hickory was not fun with a hybrid table saw :censored:

especially when my friend saw the product and said I can use his shaper whenever I want to save myself some time :censored:

live and learn, or just bill for it :)
Next time run 2 passes with the dado head, then change to a ripping blade and stand the nosing up on end. I have made thousands of feet of nosing that way.

Try you you might like it. :thumbsup:
 
#32 ·
That's nothin',

I did 40' of stair tread (made it) out of 5/4" Oak. I used a circular saw and a router with a 3/4" bit.

Set the circular saw to 1/4" depth. Attach rip fence to 1" from blade. Rip the 40'.

Set up the router with a round over, do both sides of the edge to create a bull nose.

Then set the router to 1/4" depth. Rout out the rest with back and forth passes. Burn up the first bit, go get another one.

My arms were sooooo sore after that! Why? "On site" modifications with no time to order. The sunken step from the living room needed a bull nosed tread.

They paid dearly....and yes they paid. :thumbup:
 
#34 · (Edited)
Its not truly a profile milled on a table saw, but it was mostly table saw work to get the end product...

Took this...


Made This



The crown I made was to reproduce some no longer stocked Lowes plastic crown that the homeowner put up in one room...asked me to get something close...so I sold them this at decent price installed w/o paint. It takes two lengths of crown to make one. I ripped the top ogee off one, and the cove off the bottom of the other, glued and pinned back together. Used the router table for the 1/4" cove and away we went. Changed the spring angle to 45* as well. I also discovered that 3 5/8" PFJ crown is $0.55 a foot at my local Home Depot...that is cheaper then my local yard...by far.

I find myself creating more and more custom trim out of part and pieces of stock trim....I guess it is really nothing more then a build up....

I may have posted this up someplace on here already, not sure, but the first time was a trial run with some 5 1/4" crown I had laying around, this is the actual stuff...
 
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