none in local

Well i think texture 1-11 has gone the way of the dodo .. cant imagine anyone wanting on their home. I know the 4/8 sheets are in every HD.. if you need 'custom' sizes search the web for texture 1-11. from looking looks like there are a couple brethren out there that can still get it in other sizes contact them maybe they can help.. though I still dont know why anyone would want it.. Maybe in dryer regions its ok but it was proved long ago that the atlantic eats it up..

 

Yes they still make it that size, my supplier can get me up to 4x10 sheets. Just looked it up at their secure online order site.

But I never use it anymore, and haven't in almost 20 years.

 

I saw some 4x10' sheets of texture 1-11 stacked on a commercial job several months back. I can still clearly see the Weyerhaeuser logo that was sprayed on the end of the stack. It's more like chipboard stuff rather than plywood t1-11, but the appearance is still the same.

 

I saw some 4x10' sheets of texture 1-11 stacked on a commercial job several months back. I can still clearly see the Weyerhaeuser logo that was sprayed on the end of the stack. It's more like chipboard stuff rather than plywood t1-11, but the appearance is still the same.

That was LP SmartSide panels. I have used the ungrooved panels of this for soffits and porch ceilings on the cheaper houses.

http://www.lpcorp.com/sidingtrim/lpsmartside/products/panel.aspx




To the original poster: If this house is going to be painted and they don't want a natural stained wood look, the SmartSide is the way to go. These panels are pre-primed, hold paint well, and last longer than the real wood T-111. Also available in up to 4x10 sheets.

 

T 1-11 the difference between a shed, and a home

 

I am tired. I didn't pay attention at all to the fact that you wrote Weyerhauser in your post, just to the chip board comment.

But I thought Weyerhauser got out of the plywood business. And if you want to see something funny look at this Weyerhauser ILevel page on exterior products. For siding they list James Hardie, LP SmartSide, CertainTeed, and a few others. The only siding product listed that is theirs, is their CedarOne cedar siding.

 

But I thought Weyerhauser got out of the plywood business. .

Beats me. Just sayin' what I saw, is all. You could sum up everything I know about plywood in one word... Nothing.

I find that, in general, when some guys say that they can't get thus-and-such, they just havn't checked with the right kind of supplier. Lowe's and Home Deopt, and even your local mom-and-pop lumber store, don't really cut it when you need something special all of the time. There are suppliers that serve the commercial market that are more used to sourcing odd products in a short amount of time. I have no idea where I'd get 54" x 16' drywall, for instance, but I see it all the time on bigger jobs. I'm certain the clerk at the Deopt would tell you it doesn't exist.

 

Roseburg makes T-111 in 4"oc and 8"oc and RB&B 12"oc.
They have clear fir which is an altogether different animal than YP.
It's been discussed here before, that fir is a much more stable product
than YP. I could show you some right now
that's been on for 25 years (oil stain) and looks just fine thanks.
Around here there is one real yard that will order it
and I can get it from Menard as well.
There are others who make fir siding with the "football" patches,
but Roseburg is the only one I've found with clear veneer.

 

I find that, in general, when some guys say that they can't get thus-and-such, they just havn't checked with the right kind of supplier. Lowe's and Home Deopt, and even your local mom-and-pop lumber store, don't really cut it when you need something special all of the time. There are suppliers that serve the commercial market that are more used to sourcing odd products in a short amount of time. I have no idea where I'd get 54" x 16' drywall, for instance, but I see it all the time on bigger jobs. I'm certain the clerk at the Deopt would tell you it doesn't exist.

Truer words were never spoken.

I tried to buy 6" cove vinyl base last week. Every lumber yard I went in told me that it doesn't exist. Then I showed all of them the Flexco and Armstrong websites and they answered that it was a special product that they can't get. So I called the distributer in Albany and they told me that I had to be a storefront business or they wouldn't sell to me. So then I went to the tile store and they called the same distributer who replied that it wasn't available because the tile store had to go through a dealer HOWEVER........there are no dealers in my area.

.......all this for 96 feet of cove base. :bangin::bangin:

 

thanks guys. Kind of what i figured. This h/o really wanted real board & batten but the thought of all the blocking required (200+ft of ext. wall) lead us to talk them into reverse b&b. At the time i did not Know it would be hard to get in 9'. Even though we are planing to house wrap the studs, real b&b would be full of cracks. Is there a sheet product that looks like real b&b? Neolitic, Where can i look for that Roseburg fur 12" rb&b? But anyway, my partner has allready told the suppler to order us a stack of 8' t1-11 and we will just use a z-flash at the joint, will have to at the gable ends anyway. That is if i cant come up with somthing better in time.

 

why not sheath it and use vinyl board and batten? The new stuff is really nice looking and rigid

 

If the homeowner wants a B & B look, a reverse is not even going to be close. It will look like cheap tract home from the late 60's early 70's.

If they are willing to pay I would give them the almost real thing with the Roseburg sheets. Like mentioned before the Roseburg panels are great and are not like the typical T-111. We have used them before for a B & B look, and will be using them in a upcoming project this spring. Also the Roseburg product is not cheap, so hopefully your customers are willing to pay.


Where are you located? So we can point you in the right direction on where to purchase.

Another reason why everyone should have where they are from in their profile or signature.

 

Go to the Hardie site and look under "Vertical Siding". They have there own version of T1-11 called "Sierra". I just got 75 pcs delivered to a job yesterday (about $60 a sheet). All pre-painted. I've never installed this particular product of Hardies yet but can tell you they come in 4x8 and 4x10. The stuff is about 3/8" thick. I'll let you know how it is to work with after we get started on Monday.

 

Go to the Hardie site and look under "Vertical Siding". They have there own version of T1-11 called "Sierra". I just got 75 pcs delivered to a job yesterday (about $60 a sheet). All pre-painted. I've never installed this particular product of Hardies yet but can tell you they come in 4x8 and 4x10. The stuff is about 3/8" thick. I'll let you know how it is to work with after we get started on Monday.

You are going to hate it.

Nobody I know around here likes it.

First it is heavy. Then it is more brittle than you think, so handle it with care and really pay attention to your nailing. Get to close to the edge and there goes a chunk off or a crack. Then how are you going to deal with the vertical seams? Are you going to caulk it, use a H joint, or is this a B & B look so the seam will be covered? This is where I think there is a problem with how these panels look. The vertical seams are butt jointed and not lapped like plywood or Smartside siding. And it is hard with caulk to not have the seams stand out like sore thumbs. And I also think the H joints look as bad. The only thing that looks good is a B & B look so the seams are covered.

 

You might be able to run a combination of a freeze board on the top and a skirt w/ a small sill to avoid running a seam with 8' T1-11.

I looked at the Vertical Hardie siding today and it doesn't look cheap IMO. The paint is baked on so the finish (like all Hardie products) looks a little shinny now, but it mellows after about 4-6 months in the weather. At least it won't break when a kids ball or something hits it in a few years.

I tear off vinyl siding,I never put it on. :no:

 

I tear off vinyl siding,I never put it on. :no:

Its really a shame what some vinyl siders have done to give it a bad rap. We specialize in vinyl siding systems that create the look of real wood siding. No visible J channel. And very few seams.

 

The reason we don't put vinyl on is because; no matter how thick it is; it gets brittle from the suns UV ray's. The saying that vinyl is final is absolutely false. I've taken vinyl off after only ten years because it's full of cracks and holes from things hitting it. It's impossible to match it after its been in the sun, and you can't even paint it. It's life is pretty much over at that point.

I've seen some truly good looking vinyl jobs but I prefer selling a job that will last 25 to 50yrs or more.

Edit:OOPS! Drift Alert!

 

The reason we don't put vinyl on is because; no matter how thick it is; it gets brittle from the suns UV ray's. The saying that vinyl is final is absolutely false. I've taken vinyl off after only ten years because it's full of cracks and holes from things hitting it.

I've seen some truly good looking vinyl jobs but I prefer selling a job that will last 25 to 50yrs.

Your talking about first generation vinyl. Good quality vinyl will last, Alcoa quest panels and Certainteed monogram, all excellent panels that will last with NO MAINTENANCE, no painting, no caulking

 

I don't agree w/ Jason W's statements re: vinyl, but his trade lists historical renovations...in which case I would prefer a more solid product. Nothing like a crappy vinyl job on a historical jem!

 

Sorry, didnt realize my location was not shown. 100 miles south of Birmingham Al. But anyway hardie board is out, looks to complicated and the h/o is cheap. Vinyl is still and option, just waiting for the h/o to decide, but we are probably going to use 8' t111 and cover the groves with 1x2 cedar strips. Starting at floor level and adding a horizontal trim to cover the joint at 8' using z-flashing of course. I asked about 9' t111 in a well established building center in Selma today (50 miles from the last place). He called his supplier (Georga Pacific) in front of me. No go.

 

http://www.woodfordplywood.com in Montgomery they may be able to help, and they do carry some t-111 products in 9' lengths. Or they have preprimed T-111 in 8'-10' lengths from Temple and LP, if this building is going to be painted.

 

Sorry Guys - I'm new and lost in this site -all I want to do is post a question. Where's the "New Post" tab??? Thanks!

 

Read up
http://www.contractortalk.com/faq.php?faq=vb_faq#faq_vb_board_usage

 

Thankyou, Neolitic.
But what I need to know (I had already read the info you suggested) is how do I ask a brand new question, not the writing tools, and not just replying - which obviously I figured out...

 

RossRoss -

Go to the top of this page
Under the ContractorTalk icon, there's a button marked HOME. Click it.
Scroll down and choose the appropriate sub forum topic for your post. Click it.
Part way down the loaded page is a green New Topic button. Click it.
Type in an appropriate title and your question/comment, spellcheck it and hit Submit reply button.
Follow your thread and reply with answers when asked about your topic.

Be sure to take a look at some of the other threads in that forum when you're there. There's a lot of good information out here, use the search function to find specific info.

Mac

 

Thanks for the heads up kgmz. looks like were going to use the 8' t-111 and just use a z flash at the horizontal seam. The h/o wants to see what that looks like and then decide if they want the batten strips. I will probably use cedar 1x2s for the virtical strips and 1x4s for corners and window trim but my concern is that the t-111 behind the strips want get sealed properly and cause rot. If the house was to be painted then no problem just caulk the hell out of it, but they want it stained. Any suggestions? Oh just thought of something cedar 1x2s are finger jointed and will show through stain, damn.:wallbash: H.o.ers are responsable for the painting and stain on this job so i hope they hire someone who knows what to do.