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New Quirky Carpenter
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I don't know what to do with these cheaply sided houses! This is a punch-list job. On this, they had a leak from the window, some rotted trim...

1- Not sure where to find 4x?' Sheets of this?
2- whats the best way to reinstall the flanged window?
3- I am now planning on pulling off all trim and over-lapped siding.

My plan was to remove all for 5' + wide section, tar paper, put window flange against studs over tar, but this is a rental and well above my quote. (Landlord is in different state). Any better ideas or what the product is, is much appreciated.
 

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Can't tell exactly what's going on in the pics, but I think I would flash tape around the window, install a drip cap over the window and then trim it out with 1x Miratec or cedar, then prime and paint the trim.

Then again, that's only if you've actually discovered why the window leaked in the first place. If it was because the trim went bad, then that should solve your problem. If not, then all bets are off.
 

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New Quirky Carpenter
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The window leaked because its a flanged window that was nailed on top of the siding and the caulk in the grooves failed. (And/or its leaking from higher up too).
It's just the siding nailed to the studs. I was going to install the window in against studs, but then it needs tar paper or I could probably use Tyvek since theres no interior vapor barrier. Then tape flange, install trim with drip cap, reinstall new siding. ???
 

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New Quirky Carpenter
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
jlsconstruction said:
If you can't find it you can get 4x8 sheets of smart soffit. And make it into what you need. How many sheets do you need?
2 or 3. 4x10' about. It depends if i can salvage any when i really tear it apart.
 

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New Quirky Carpenter
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
In this pic - the siding was behind the window flange, the cedar 1x6's were over that and were removed. Whats above the window now is the header. I haven't dealt with a house with a shed assembly before :)
 

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Butcher of wood and metal
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In this pic - the siding was behind the window flange, the cedar 1x6's were over that and were removed. Whats above the window now is the header. I haven't dealt with a house with a shed assembly before :)
It use to be a pretty common pratice to do it way. What was missing on most was drip cap to stop water doing just what happened here. Alot of trailers or manufactured homes where built that way. Cheap and fast.
 

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In this pic - the siding was behind the window flange, the cedar 1x6's were over that and were removed. Whats above the window now is the header. I haven't dealt with a house with a shed assembly before :)
Yeah, then you're going to need to do what you're thinking for sure. Too bad it was done that way originally, because if it was just a leak because the trim failed, then you probably wouldn't need to go back to the studs.

But, IMHO, your thinking is sound. Just be sure and use a drip cap this time.

Good luck! :thumbsup:
 

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Designer/Contractor
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Gotta pay real close attention to the flashing details; can't count on caulking to do the job, it all starts with the building paper and the window flashing being applied in the proper manner with the window assembly so the water always has a way out.

Like an old roofer I knew said, 'ya gotta think like a raindrop'.
 

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Gotta pay real close attention to the flashing details; can't count on caulking to do the job, it all starts with the building paper and the window flashing being applied in the proper manner with the window assembly so the water always has a way out.

Like an old roofer I knew said, 'ya gotta think like a raindrop'.
My first boss ( a roofer) would always say "think like water"
 

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New Quirky Carpenter
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I over thought this! I appreciate most of the replies. It's 7 1/4" to over-lapped siding. Going to cut there, pull window, install 1/2" plywood, install flashing, flash caulk, set window back, tape like its Presto!, Install 1x8" cedar trim (which throws off 1x6 look but only one other window on this side, not flashed). But, its a cheaply sided house. :)
I put a gutter up today and noticed theres not only no flashing, but no tar paper under shingles...
 

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New Quirky Carpenter
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I replied fully, but phone died/lost. (I had more detail...). I'm leaving window basically on siding. Cutting out all rotted areas and replacing with ply. I'm going to tape any seams.... Thats why 1x8's will cover. The top trim will be flashed under all layers.

The weak barrier when I'm done will be the roof.
 

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New Quirky Carpenter
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Tom Struble said:
i don't know.., if there is no sheathing or wrb the bottom and side flanges should be on the siding but the head must be under, the only way to do that is with a z shaped head drip
Tom, I love your advice. I'm using a 1 3/4" drip-cap flashing. Going to wrap most in perfecto after filling voids with ply...
 

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New Quirky Carpenter
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Just wanted to post some pics to show what I did. And thank everyone for their replies.

I made clean cuts to remove rotted siding. Cut up to over-lapped siding and installed drip-cap (under both layers). Cut nails on window flange (one-side at a time), put pieces of AC ply (with flashing sealant on top) and squeezed behind window flange. Any joints were filled with flashing sealnt, perfecto'd, and used 1x8" cedar instead of 1x6". Only one other window on this side and its much taller.
 

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Butcher of wood and metal
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Given the situation I think that turned out pretty good. Did you use a good caulk siding to trim and trim to window?
 
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