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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am generaling a basement and they want a suspended ceiling in all areas for access. I understand the ladders built for the verticals and covered with drywall and the wall angles attach to that. But how is the underside of the ducts framed to accept ceiling tiles and the edge of the vertical drywall covered since the wall flange is also needed to hold the T's that go across between the ladders of the duct work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Fantastic. I was kinda figuring the same thing. Just wasn't sure on the edge finishing. Thanks a bunch:thumbsup:
 

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I would recommend painting the drywall before putting up the wall angle to avoid having to cut in against the wall angle. I always leave an even reveal on that return up of around an inch. I would not recommend running the angle flush with the corner bead (personal preference). Also if you are not familiar with drop ceiling installation I always cut tee's resting on wall angle about 1/4- short from inside wall angle this way you have a little room to square everything up (this way your not locked in and fighting it to get it square). Get everything square and straight (site down the main) clamp and rivet. A framing square works well for squaring tees before riveting
 

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All I can say is I wish they had internet when I started out. Kuddos to all who add their knowledge to these sites. When I started you had to figure it out yourself, there was no goggle or ask. com.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I believe the decision by the homeowner is to have both a mix of drywall and 2x2 tile in this development. In the end this duct work may move to being drywall entirely not tiled. So I have to get a decision moving forward. I would assume since the width is approx. 86-90" wide I should probably run the horizontal support studs from each ladder side on edge for strength. I have a lot of head room it's a 9 foot basement. Here is the tile I think they are going to use. Running around 5 bucks a sq. ft installed
 

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You need to build trapezes by taking black iron, and spanning it from end to end and hanging wires off the black iron. Easiest way is to tie two wires, tie black iron to the two wires and repeat every 4 feet as tie wires are to be spaces 4' apart. Wish I had a picture to explain
 

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You need to build trapezes by taking black iron, and spanning it from end to end and hanging wires off the black iron. Easiest way is to tie two wires, tie black iron to the two wires and repeat every 4 feet as tie wires are to be spaces 4' apart. Wish I had a picture to explain
Why wouldn't it work the way I described in the second post?
 

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If you rather it look like a drywall soffit instead of a multiple layered drop ceiling.. (ugly)

Google this.

Armstrong ShortSpan Drywall Framing System

Allows up to 7' of span..

This way its just a large soffit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
That would be fine but now I have to add another 12" due to a unexpected heat run. So now I'm at 94 ". So the 86" is out the window. Ladders are the small built 2x4 or sometimes 2x2 stud walls hanging off the ceiling on both sides to accept the tiles or drywall going across. I'll be at 17" drop, due to HVAC and a Pex manifold in the ceiling.
 

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Instead of ladders use 1/2" plywood for the vertical sides. Install a 2x2 on each side of the ducting to the floor joists taking care to make sure it is straight and they are parallel to each other. Rip the ply 1/4" less than the height you need. I figure the height by adding 1-3/4" to the distance from the floor joists to the lowest item to cover. Straighten the plywood with a string, install your grid. Rock the plywood, use trim to cover the rock edge and support the tile and grid edge.

I find 1/4" is enough room to adjust the height for level.

Tom
 
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