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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, first time im actually going to attempt this on a set of limestone treads, so pardon the noob questions.

Do I need a fancy carbide chisel, or can I just use a regular 2" wide home depot chisel "as thick as i can get"?

Next question, say my tread is 6.5', and I need to rock face both sides, should I leave an extra 4" (2" each side to rock face), or more?
 

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How thick is the tread? If it's more than 4" (I doubt it) I might leave 2" either side, but if it's 1.5-2" I'd do not more than 1" so you can be sure of getting rid of the saw marks.

Many use el cheapo chisels their whole career. All carbide helps with is not having to sharpen as often

good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I use 2" thick when I put treads all the time, so I should try maybe 4" over hang on each side and rock away at that? how do you get them perfectly in line with each other when your not precisely cutting them, won't they look a bit off? or do I snap a line before I start?
 

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You could snap a line, I've never seen that done, but if it helps you, why not. You could use a soapstone pencil as well. Most just freestyle it. I call that the arris line, I've heard it called other things as well.

You don't generally want to order (or cut) the stone too long in that case......when you rock face, you'll only take about 1/2" on a 2" stone as JBM mentions.....often the rock facing done from both sides will still leave 'unfaced' stone in the center (more common with thicker stock).....some people leave that if it's minimal, some thermal it, some will dress it further....whatever works.

But in the end the outer edges of your rock face will be close to the cut size, and your arris lines will be about 1-1 1/4" less........this number will climb for thicker stock........
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I played around with a piece of limestone i had laying around eariler, it definitally left that solid piece in the middle that your talking about, i tried about 2 inches in as well, and it chunked off too far and made my cut line very uneven lol. but im sure ill get the hang of it, just gotta keep practicing i guess
 

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I have always just used a reg brick 3" or 4" bolster, plus set the stone or sill on grass, or a soft surface, like a folded up drop cloth.
 

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i tried about 2 inches in as well, and it chunked off too far and made my cut line very uneven lol. but im sure ill get the hang of it, just gotta keep practicing i guess
You may have gotten greedy and tried to take off too much at once. Take off 2" but take off 1" (all the way around) then 1/2" then another 1/2" or whatever works. Trying to take off tp much at a time is a recipe for bad cuts.

Stonecutter. "Sending a message" is good for tracing but in rocking I haven't found it necessary. In brittle limestone like the stuff local to here I much prefer steel to carbide until the material is over 6" thick. It's probably psychological and i don't hit it as hard but carbide doesn't work on this stuff.

But to each their own, what works for me won't work for everyone.
 

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I agree, I guess i was talking about the necessity for it to be a clear straight message which is mostly needed in tracing. For rocking a very blunt tool is used (or can be used) and a clean clear message isn't really sent. More just force and the blunt blade forcing the material away
 
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