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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Everyone,
First of all thanks in advance for your advice!.
Here is my question; I’m working on a public art piece for the New School of Architecture at the University of New Mexico. The piece comprises an outdoor large 900 sq feet screen that we are installing over an exterior wall in the building.

In order to screw the supporting system for the screen, made of 6” x 8” x 5/16” wall aluminum rectangular tubing, we need to find out the position of the metal studs inside the wall.

The building was inaugurated in 2006 but still no one; not the architects nor the contractors or the engineers (who calculated and designed the structure for the wall) can provide the exact position of the studs, they only know that they are 16” o.c. apart.

The existing wall is 5/8" glass-mat sheathing with 3/4” stucco and the studs are 6” 18 gage galvanized steel studs with 1 5/8 wide flange.

They think a stud finder (even the most advanced ones) won’t do the trick and therefore we need to cut open the wall, what it means that we will have to waterproof it afterwards (since it’s an outside wall).

This seems a bit extreme to me also since we don’t need to be precise to the millimeter, we just need to put a #12 self-tapping screw in the center of each stud.

advice anyone?

Thanks!

Federico
 

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Maxi-Pier Tech
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use a small masonry bit to drill a series of horizontal holes, 1" apart. find the first one. after that, measure 16" oc. small holes can be filled with caulking like polyseamseal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi essrmo,
Thanks for your advice, we thought of that also, but still they insist on cuting the wall. I'm this close to take a flight to Albuquerque to just do it myself!
F
:mad:
 

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Maxi-Pier Tech
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cutting the wall will compromise the waterproofing integrity. that will in turn, lead to structual intergrity issues further down the line.
Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
that's what i thought about cutting the wall. they are suggesting to cut a hole on the wall inside the building that connect to this outside wall, but still seems to extreme to me.

hi JonM,
the wall is hollow, is this what you're asking?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
oh I see what do you mean, this is a standing wall, meaning the only part that connects to the building is one of the short sides (see attached image)
 

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I'm willing to be they went 16 oc from the building wall outward...try a magnet...I would be totally surprise if no pictures exist of such a project going up....if only for liability purposes
 

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That's a pretty big piece to leave in the hands of guys stymied by finding some studs. Sounds like trouble.

I'm four blocks away, I'll keep an eye out for the screen tangled up in the trees across the street. :shifty:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I Know!
when I tell my architects friends that I'm having such a hard time for them to figure out where the studs are they roll their eyes up.
there are some photos of the construction process but it seems that they are not of any use for this. And since I'm based in NY all I can do is to rely on them.
:sad:
I'll pass them your ideas and let's see if at least they get inspired.
thanks Guys
F
 

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get a big enough rare earth magnet and you can probably pull that wing wall down :whistling
We end up using neodymium magnets for this type of thing all the time. As walls get thicker and thicker, we just switch to larger and larger magnets.

As a side note for whomever talked about using something like a window for a frame of reference, we use pairs of magnets for this as well: matching an attic location with a spot on the ceiling, for instance.
 

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wannabe
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My $.02...........In theory. A stud should be 14.25" +/- the wall covering from one corner or the other......
 
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