Straight Line Ripping Jig ?

a strip of plywood .

Air brad nail it to the piece of wood overhanging it on the edge that will go against the saw fence. Keep the nails where they will be ripped off on your next tablesaw rip cut.

This gives a straight edge on one side of your wood to ride against your fence. When you rip it you have a straight cut. Then pull off the plywood and rip the other side straight and to width.

That is the quick easy method.

You could make a jig. A 'sled' to hold the board with built on clamps. The straight sled rides against the fence of the saw. The board is clamped to it.

The fastest , and possibly easiest, way is to use a nice straight stick as long as the board being straightened as your guide. Crown the board away from the straight edge and set the fence to the sum total of the two less what ever is needed to get your edge.

Push both pieces through side by side paying close attention to how you are applying pressure to the two boards so they stay nice and snug to the fence all the way through.

Takes a couple passes worth of practice and you'll have it down pretty good. Low tech, but quick and effective.

Now if you had a slider with a ten foot stroke then....:whistling:laughing:

you can do it like the old old timers...








use the festool!!

john5mt said:

Use a TS-55 makes it real easy
:thumbsup:

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That makes it too easy:laughing:

Don't be giving away all our secrets, how will be able to set ourselve's apart from the regular crowd?:laughing:

Straight line rip all the time with mill-run white pine 1x 12",14", 16",18".

What I do is take a good flat board usually from the stock I'm working with snap a line at say 3-1/2" then take
1/4 ply and attach it to the line taking the time to check it with my 6'
straight edge.Than take my worm drive and run it down the edge of the ply making the board straight than take this board and clamp it on top of each board that needs to be straightened you can run through a good size pile pretty quick with this method.At this point you have a pile of boards that are ready to be sized at the table saw

jeffatsquan said:

Straight line rip all the time with mill-run white pine 1x 12",14", 16",18".

What I do is take a good flat board usually from the stock I'm working with snap a line at say 3-1/2" then take
1/4 ply and attach it to the line taking the time to check it with my 6'
straight edge.Than take my worm drive and run it down the edge of the ply making the board straight than take this board and clamp it on top of each board that needs to be straightened you can run through a good size pile pretty quick with this method.At this point you have a pile of boards that are ready to be sized at the table saw

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What kinda clamp?

Gus Dering said:

What kinda clamp?

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Deep throated Bessie's or vice grip C-clamps

Usually this stock is longer 16' or so we use 2 men one on each end take the straighting board set on top of board to be straightened line it up so you take any wane or other defect clamp, one guy runs the saw the other manges the cord and scarp, repeat...

Cletus said:

I use a 20' piece of 2"x3" aluminum tube to make a long fence for the unisaw. With infeed/outfeed tables I can push a stack of boards through pretty quick with excellent results. I do have to be somewhat careful not to side load the fence because it will deflect if I bully it.

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I second this.
I use a 1"x4" aluminum tube that is 12' long cost $50 at the local metal yard. Straight as an arrow.

BACKWOODS said:

I was working with some 4/4 Cherry I bought a few years back. When I bought this I did not have my supplier Straight Line Rip one side for me.
I used double sided tape and a straight piece of cypress to make my own jig.
I had to use new tape on each board. Anyone have any other jigs to create a straight edge. My boards are 10' long in this example.

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That's what a jointer is for.

Gus Dering said:

The fastest , and possibly easiest, way is to use a nice straight stick as long as the board being straightened as your guide. Crown the board away from the straight edge and set the fence to the sum total of the two less what ever is needed to get your edge.

Push both pieces through side by side paying close attention to how you are applying pressure to the two boards so they stay nice and snug to the fence all the way through.

Takes a couple passes worth of practice and you'll have it down pretty good. Low tech, but quick and effective.

Now if you had a slider with a ten foot stroke then....:whistling:laughing:

Click to expand...

:rockon: