Stone House Oxford Ct.

The f p wasn't mine

they owed me and hired the best wall guy.
It had two fp.s and once built it had to be completely dismantled. There wasn't enough foor cut out on the second fl for the bedroom fp and I told them that.
The mason jerry rigged a fire hazzard and the chimney leaked terribly. He made it with block and veneered it,.. never flue flashed it.
I don't think the copper goes in more than 1-1/2''.

Iv'e gotten away witout flueflashing in houses with tall attics and much bulk to blot but if a ceiling is close I never chance it.

Flue fashing is good but it can cause moisture damage if weepers are not strategically placed where water can drain out. I've seen plain tar mastic for a interior flue flash work for many years ........as long as no chimney fire ..lol

Best way is to use lead inside and double hem it, as its forgiving over iregularities.

Copper is ok inside the chimney but it needs embedding and weight on it,.. and still it will tin can on you when the sun hits it or descends.

It has to be nailed with copper nails and soldered but thats another delay! I guess maybe const glue may work but it too has to set or it pops up.

Nick520 said:

Starting a job with large amounts of cultured just lookin for some decent temps

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I can be a decent temp...lol Do you let the scratch dry a day or so before laying.

I had to redo two large chimneys on a log cabin with a metal roof. They leaked badly through the cathedral ceiling.
They had tyvec with the wire but the stone were
applied on the fresh scatch. It was dry look and you could see the wire intemittently through the joints. I put ice and snow shield on the plywood then wire and sratch...coated again another day and buttered the backs of the stone as I applied them to the fresh second coat.. The owner put a hose to it for hours before he paid me..no leaks.

They make a special tyvec for behind stucco, it lets water run down little capilary grooves in the fabric....but I don't trust tyvec..I've seen it turn to newspaper behind brickwork after 10 years. Besides there are the nails and cuts from the wire as you nail it!

Also do you use dimpled wire?

flue flash

dom-mas said:

What is flue flashing?

40 degrees? I won't see that until late March, early April

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flue flash is nothing more than running the flashing into and up along the flues about 6'' and then bending in onto them and up again about a 1-1/2''. I never liked going into the flue and in fact along side is sufficient then silicone or seal.

It's a pain on steep pitched roofs with many flues but if you have a cathedral ceiling and the chimney exits through it, it stops water damage and mold at the sheetrock abutting the cimney.

Ramifications are it keeps the moisture within the exterior portion ie no wicking via capilary so the chimney needs to breath out throgh any sealer and I suspect many sealers are full of sit when it comes to their claims.

The pitching of the flashing inside is is key and to provide the weeps where the water will actually go.
Spinklle some pea stone or small chips where you make the intereior canals. Somtime a decent length of rope suffices and then it gets pulled out. The weeps need to be fitted with shards of copper curled up to stop the wasps from mudding them up. You undoubetly knew this the name thru u as it did me years ago when I 1st did.

Here's a pic of a stone chimney atop a beach house where you can see the white stains at the weeps.....it was sealed twice with prososco[spelling iffy].

bond break it is....the flue pipes serve as a bond somewhat especially if large 16'' or 18''.......you can rod it and place copper tube around and flash.......if worried but the weight holds ....if the chimney is tall and floppy I'd rod it. No other choice when a cieling is close.

The riglet rake is what alot of masons do....I neve did that we alwayd run it in 3'' hem it up a 1/4'' and at the vert end of each tab. The end of each tab which is covered or lapped by 4'' is hemmed up to stop water from migrating alog the tab .ie wind blows it and it sometimes follws the brick bottom of the brick that laid.

An old Carpenter taught me that little trick ...in fact you can actually have the tabs lifting away from the chimney and they wont leak with that blind hem.... Many sky lights adopted it through the years as well as vent bott bases etc.



Another [old German] Carpenter gave me a nice hint about chimney caps.........I asked him what the caulking was doing around the preimeter of the underside of his blustone cap.......just in from the outer edge about an 1''.
He said it's a drip........otherwise the water rolls in alog the underside of the cap "then what good is the cap".....well I was always taught to lay the crown side up but not that....a kerf will work but it can weaken a bastard stone[layered].

I looked up that stone chimny thru the damper [my house the one in the pic] as I am getting effloresence in the firebox.... the water was doing just what he said it would ...capilary and wind being the culprit..so I ran a bead of clear silicone around it and it worked. Urathane would be better.

He borrowd my water level once....u know the kind with the little resiviour that comes with the 50' clear tube that rolls up around the petite resivour..
I mentioned to him to make sure to get all the bubles out and don't let the thing get low as it happens fas, also to whatch the wind as it will easily fluctuate the water by a 1/4'' .....he brought it back and I asked him how he did with it.....he said "I just put the whole thing in a bucket of water with a weight on it...so since then when I start a job I set the bucket up and leave it with a peice of plywood on it and use it through out the job. If it,sthere for a long time I just chek it against the bench mark........can do it alone /around corners/over piles of dirt whatever..and when getting the bubbles out the large resivour within the bucked doesnt even get affected. Damn Germans are smart!..lol