[The General]

I am wanting to know the good and bad on shell frame construction. I can get the best stick framer for 3.50 but it will take him 2 months to frame it and he does 60% of the house (4 man crew). I can go with a local shell frame construction at a price of (10.25 lumber included) and they can have the whole house done in 2 days after the slab is done (ie building it off site.) Of course stick framers say they are not worth a [email protected] Anyone have any suggestions.

 

[CFC]

I am wanting to know the good and bad on shell frame construction. I can get the best stick framer for 3.50 but it will take him 2 months to frame it and he does 60% of the house (4 man crew). I can go with a local shell frame construction at a price of (10.25 lumber included) and they can have the whole house done in 2 days after the slab is done (ie building it off site.) Of course stick framers say they are not worth a [email protected] Anyone have any suggestions.[/QUOT

 

[PipeGuy]

What do you mean by "shell frame construction"? Are you talking about pre-fabbed lumber packages? Like when the walls, roof trusses and stuff come from a factory?

 

[Glasshousebltr]

I think he's talking about SIP's.

If you are, I'll tell you a little about Structual Insulated Pannels.

Some of the manufactures have an engineers stamp, some don't, check that out for sure.

Some manufactures offer an install crew, then they sick a first time SIP sub crew on you. This is due to the great distances between jobs and it happens often.

SIP's are great, but they need a SKILLED installer. You can't cheat like a stick frame so your foundation needs to be well above industry standards.

Don't let the manufacturer talk you into a kit cut home. The press that makes the pannels doesn't require skilled help so they don't employ skilled help and the problems will mount. Buy the pannels, pick a good installer and cut on site.

Keep us posted and happy building, if you can get that much out of the process.:cheesygri

Bob

 

[The General]

shell Construction

Here is the link for the Co. www.capstructures.com
The majority of the house will be framed in their facility on a level surface. The engineer has taken my plans and will build it to spec. The walls are 2x4 with exterior osb sheathing. Floor trusses are also done off site. Talking to builders some use them and others say the had problems in the begining but the company has worked them out now. Foundation will be fine other than a slight rise or fall as with any slab. Also this company is located within 15 miles of the building site and the head of commercial sales lives across the street. So I think they will do a good job on the install. One stick framer said the nails might not stick due to the controled enviorment vs on site cold and hot weather. might be b/s

 

[JustaFramer]

...

 

[1badbanana]

How big is the house?

How big is this house?

 

[The General]

http://www.coolhouseplans.com/found.html?pid=17859&x=31&y=18

Here is the houseplan. After changes it will be around 2600sf. Bonus room and back patio will be finished out. I do have a question about the bonus room. The engineer changed the room to 22x12. He said that the T design it has now is to much weight on the upstairs. I think it had something to do with the roof trusses. Please let me know if it is because they would have to stick frame that area over using prebuilt trusses. Looks like I will be kicking off this project next weekend. I might start taking pictures start to finish and post them in the construction forum. :cheesygri

 

[Glasshousebltr]

General, I don't really understand how he thinks load has something to do with the width of the family room. To me it appears the truss run front to back at that location. I f I'm correct the roof and upper load sits on the exterior walls, front/back.

Unless he feels the overall SqFt load is too much on the truss. In that case it appears a post in the Kit/Fam wall, then another in the Kit/Bed3 wall, with a microlam between would be a better solution rather than cutting 3 feet off the house.

With a little change in the footing/basement post area.

Bob

 

[Teetorbilt]

You have an engineer, let him straighten it out.
As an engineer, there is far too little info on which to base an opinion. First and foremost would be the truss design and wall structure both of which are easily modified.

 

[JustaFramer]

...

 

[Chopper]

Why do panels "suck" ? I work for and set panels and trusses for a company in IL. Our stuff runs true, goes up faster thereby closing construction loans faster, customer in house quicker, floors covered quicker. Cost is about the same as stick framing. And I don't think for a minute "stick framers" suck. JMO

 

[Glasshousebltr]

Where are you at in IL Chopper, and what panel system are you setting?

I hope not Eagle.

Bob

 

[Chopper]

We are located in Walnut Il. North Central. We man. our own panels, roof and floor trusses.

 

[Mike Finley]

I ordered a book on SIPs just yesterday. After reading about them in Fine Homebuilding this month I think they are worth knowing about.

 

[Glasshousebltr]

I was building SIPs way back in the early 80s, when only one or two co. made them here in the states.

I think it's a great concept but to many of these hack it off builders are trying to take the easy road with SIPs. They think just because they can read a tape they can build a house, and SIPs just give them an experience by-pass ticket. ABRA FRICKIN CA DABRA! A poor ass install appears.

Bob

 

[lnielesky]

I agree with Glass.... SIP's should be used for the right reasons and installed correctly...