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jb4211 said:
Which is why the HO is so excited. But, it is what it is: meaning if you want that look, you gotta dig deep down in the pocket....past the lint.
True dat.

Worth every penny judging by those pics.

Side note picked up one off these canopies from a mother at my kids school, she was giving it away so I could not say no, opened it up great condition but it was white, I though great reflect the sun and keep me cool, but no, it was so light the sun shone right through, will get a thicker one any maybe blue or navy next time.

Sorry for hijack.
 

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Painfully slow going . 1sq.ft an hour per man per hour.



You guys willing to take on the "cannon balls" have more patients then me. I refuse to try mortaring balls together. IMHO,a requisite of building stone is two flat planes opposing each other.



Looks great with what you have to work with;glad it is you not me !
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Couple notes on the EZ-up canopy.
They are like a 3 year old. Don't leave them unattended or they will get into trouble.
They can take off like a hang glider in a fair breeze. My buddy had one get away and came down on the hood of a brand new truck. That was an insurance claim.
The other is left unattended in a heavy rain they can puddle up with water untill there's 50 gallons ballooned out causing the thing to collapse into a pile of razor sharp pick up sticks. That happened to mine. Had to sawsall it apart just so I could throw it away.
 

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1 sqft per man hour...yup thats slow going

Edit

I just re-read that. I\m not saying it's slow for what you're doing just that it's slow. Especially on a T&M where the customer wants results quick so it's cheaper.

Personally if I was the customer I'd rather have 1 sqft an hr and it look good than 5 sqft an hour and it look like a dogs breakfast which is what most river rock looks like
 

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master hacker of wood
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We had a storm blow thru last night, fricken ez up picks up 15' and crashes down. The lightning is over head and cracking down close by.

I'm standing there saying its only a hundred bucks and it's on it's last legs anyways. Just as I say that it lifts off flys 50' past my van and wads the legs up!

I look further out and I see the kids huge wooden playset do a 360 and land 20' away!

So now I'm looking for a canopy and rebuilding a playset!! I guess I have too make it bigger!!
 

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mason contractors
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Yeah, kep it stiff. 3 to 1 with concrete sand. The strength between concrete sand and mason sand is quite noticeable.
Had to chip a little out. In less than 24 hours I ws using my 4 lb. Hammer and a chisel.
We'll finally another mason whom uses conc sand on stone walls.
We've been doing it since I was a kid mixed it in the box 36 shovels and in the mixer on large walls mortar mixers work too but the barrel wears fast......is it the first for you?

We do 32 to 50 shovels depending on the amount of fines. One time I got this real coarse sand that took 60 and was ritch ...made a good mix for a dry look large stoned wall.

There are some tricks for speed especially with small river rock. Take a old tee shirt double or tripple it up and place the thumb or finger behind to simulate a jonter and push in the joints and sculpture. This is of course done at the right time with good mud. Then you can use various slickers if you want or do a brush as yours look The shirt is a saver when hot/cold out.Many times the outside shrinks along the stone edges as it dries first. The pushing prevents it.
A complete slicking is nice....and even more work is the convex "grape vine" done another day or the belly look which is done carving in along the stone edges a bit, then slicking smooth!
We put tons of river rock walls up in fact I love them. My dad and me would fly on them ie no hammers needed.
I'll get a few pics from the hood..

I used to get them in a sand bank with my backhoe and auto car 12 ton at a time.....50 bucks or so..lol....
Here's a wall I did after we got back from doing 12 miles of h.b.o. underground cable in westchester n.y. back in the day around 76.
It was winter and done with schale ledge rock I broke off the cliff in my back yard.....24'' thick and I think it was 150 ft long by 5' high.
I did it with two laborers and myself in 14 days ...dug it 30'' deep then poured the base and planted the large ones in the cement then layed it in about 10 days at 75sq ft a day...not the prettiest but not one crack yet. pic taken this summer.

My grandfather would tell my dad a good stone mason would lay 75 square a day but that's all he did was stone. This was to only time I did that amount and I PUMPED. 10 to 11 bags a day 32 shovels a batch

Keep it up kido looks good. I wonder though, why the block...easier and stronger doing a solid stone wall.


https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd...._=1412764077_d54ed90a067ea2ed8fd91903d371513e
here's one me and the kid did 5 years ago. They wanted the brown stone and large site stone mixed...we didn't do the steps.. another mason attemted and got ousted because he shorted the radius 6' which I drew a sketch of. We were on 5 rumfords there while he tinkered.https://scontent-b-lga.xx.fbcdn.net...=74be42becaeea87a04520c33cbca6518&oe=54530705
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfa1/t1.0-9/164072_163638650349814_998614_n.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
The block was for speed. Because nothing is straight. It was easy to get the block plumb after we scratched a radius line in the green crete base. Then just measure 6" off the block, can't go wrong. If it werw straight we could have just pulled lines and filled the center solid as we went.
 

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mason contractors
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The block was for speed. Because nothing is straight. It was easy to get the block plumb after we scratched a radius line in the green crete base. Then just measure 6" off the block, can't go wrong. If it werw straight we could have just pulled lines and filled the center solid as we went.[/QUOTE]

Karl I did the brick stair tower [i posted here already]like that.....block 1st to a 1''by 3'' nailed to a radius kept raising the rig as it was under a hanging bob fixed above on a staging plank. I did and my dad did many a covex and concave wall and all were solid stone.
Mark out with lime[spray paint [now a]days] use a garden hose or tape and radius center pin.....if on a hill use a bob and a wire line to the pin...[the round brown stone combo wall in the pic is done that way]
We mark and dig about 6'' extra and either lay in all stone[the brownstone combo wall was all large stone footing]or pour crete and sink lage stones in. If ctirtical then either the tape or wire and plumb bob is needed......I also bang in dee stakes every 4' or so at 4' offsets or similar then lay the stone to them with a tape or measured stick.This worka as I'm usually on the backhoe setting them and the help then can measure with the sick or tape!

The old man had smarts......he'd say lok down the wall then step to the right a few feet and look down the other way at the curve...and always lay long short courses ie it's natural to wanna go high in sections!
Once the base is started you'd be surprised what your eye can do when you do not stay fixed staring down at the curvature.
An occasional check with the bob or 1x3 iis all that's needed.....

Trick is when a pitch is done......then you have to mark designated stone at preferred distances depending on the radius. Plumb at these spots with about a 1 to 1-1/2'' or so on 4'' or whatever you like.....if the stones are bellies as is most always the case then try and mark on a intermediate sized belly..... and use similar above the marks. After it rises a bit the eys lookinf both was is key......thats how onlookers spot kinks easy too!

heres a pic of my house done with a 1 by 3 placed over a dee stake and a wire and a bob...the top was simlpy a nail where the wire was...drill a hole in the 1by3 and it swivles precisely.

The round pier was done with the electrical conduit deliberately set plumb and measuring off it....but still you have to step back and eye it as precise with stone doesnt alway look it!

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.....0-9/10007232_682127355167605_876845106_n.jpg
;)
 

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mason contractors
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looks very good Karl....did you joint the caps with cement mortar......I noticed through the years that bluestone has a much greater exp and contraction rate than concrete .....ie it forms hairlines at the joints when it cools down. This is evident with all that I look at closely, mine and others.
I stay away from long or large cemeted bluestone jobs ...I know about the acryl 60 and all those hyped additives;i.e. the one to one slurry application;roughing the end cuts;etc.the but being a stratified rock I feel they are far more expansive than concrete

Years ago in Greenwich they installed a huge gunite pool with 2'' bullnose bluestone coping.. curved and all $$$ It too formed shrinkage lines when the temp coold down...
Another time a contracor did a huge bluestone patio on concrete in the heat of the summer...it all worked loose later on...I had to remove the entire patio and lay brick which is there 30years later.

I just wonder if anything super has emerged to take the joint movement other than urathane caulking? Meanwhile I'll stick with granite when cemented.
 
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