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I do 16.5" off the rough floor...(or 15"off the bottom plate)

ive never had an issue with this height...its lower than normal...most go 17" off the bottom plate, but when I used to do that once in a while I ran into issues like your having....

you can also reverse the trap....the trap can have a 2"-4"dip in it....by reversing the trap and creating an extra large dip it typically fixes the issue....I do this all the time on retrofits on older houses
 

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I find 14" is the safest bet for kitchens. Better to make sure you've got plenty of room for disposals, extra deep basins, etc.
I know the cost of slip joint extension tailpieces, is far less, than that of lowering a drain arm, coming off the stack, after the fact.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
V.I.P.PLUMBING said:
I find 14" is the safest bet for kitchens. Better to make sure you've got plenty of room for disposals, extra deep basins, etc. I know the cost of slip joint extension tailpieces, is far less, than that of lowering a drain arm, coming off the stack, after the fact.
Yeah the cost of a waste extension or this below. I know what I would rather be using right now.



Room Floor Furniture Flooring Interior design
 

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I know it's not supposed to be done, but how do they actually perform if you drop the trap, i.e GD port would be below the waste arm and inch or so? I've noticed that rigged up in a couple homes, and I was surprised to not see water in the GD. I guess the water level is below the grinding plate where can't notice it. Always wondered about them. BTW, notice the trap in this pic is glued so you can't disassemble it...nice! :(

 

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Just had to chop out the back of a custom cabinet to move the waste. Homeowner added a disposal and picked out a sink that as deep as a bathtub. The trap is touching the bottom of the cabinet. I am going as low as you can go from now on!
 
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