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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just sanded 42 threads of a staircase which was painted. The owner now is asking me to paint the runners / risers / ballisters / As you can see on the pictures, there are some collateral damage on the runner, while sanding with an angle grinder the nose of the thread. I will be glad receiving your advice about the steps to be taken, for painting the complete staircase cage / and all the timber. The owner is asking for white colour for the runners / risers / ballisters / the wall not yet decided. I put 3 coats of a poly on the treads. Men I have been sanding like crazy the 2 last week.

http://s1162.photobucket.com/user/jmsign/library/Staircase - Escalier?sort=6&page=1
 

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You should get rid of the angle grinder. You could use a super 7 for the treads or a makita stair sander which you can find at ussander.com . More importantly I use the scraper on the bull nose to get to bare wood, its much faster than sanding and wont cause damage if youre careful. After scraping I skooth jt off with a fein multitool at sixty grit and then hand sand at 120 or so.

I hate doing stair work and charge 75 to 100 a tread. Many charge half that which is foolish because when you factor in how long it takes to paint them along with sanding each one will take an hour. And of course you take the chance of damaging the risers.

I make sure when writing the proposal to outline that treads and risers are seperate and if it doesnt say risers on the bid they are not included.

One final note, I think youre on the hook for touching up the damage, you shouldnt have tk repaint the whole stairwell for free.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
The owner asked me for a quote for repainting. The sanding and varnishing was a seperate job. For sanding the treads and varnishing I charged 90€ per tread
 

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I use auto spot putty for the tiniest flaws, DAP Crackshot for tiny to small, wood putty followed with spot putty for large ones. I'd probably use the spot putty on most of the stuff I see there. It dries just about instantly, and sands well.

Prime it before painting with the finish coat. I'd rely on a good brush and careful work on the edges, rather than tape.

I think that looks very good, especially considering that it was painted before. I'll bet you've been sanding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes, lot of sanding. before putting the primer on the old paints, do I need to clean the surface with a product. Is it possible to put 1 primer coat + 1 final coat / if the primer is the same colour as the final coat "WHITE". Does monocat exist?
 

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Yes, lot of sanding. before putting the primer on the old paints, do I need to clean the surface with a product. Is it possible to put 1 primer coat + 1 final coat / if the primer is the same colour as the final coat "WHITE". Does monocat exist?
Unless it's really dirty, I'd just hand sand to scuff the existing coat a little, then wipe clean. A good primer is important - I use Zinsser 1-2-3 for just about everything, but I don't know if it's available in Belgium. A primer that's sold as a primer/sealer/stain-blocker will be better than something sold as just a primer.

Primer+one coat will probably work if you do a good job, and they're both white, but I'd plan to put on 2 coats, as skirting and risers get kicked and worn pretty hard. I don't think the paints that claim to be self-priming are very good at the priming part. I always prime separately.

Bonne chance!

All just my opinion, of course.
 

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Zut! That is expensive, about 6X as expensive as here. I would use Benjamin Moore Aura interior semi-gloss in that situation, but I don't believe it is available in Belgium. A good semi-gloss or satin paint would work well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Just for an idea, how much do you pay in $, the Zinsser. No doubt it's more expensive here. here in Belgium we pay 35% of taxes / 21% of VAT on most of the products.
 
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