[Pbpaints]

So I stained and sealed some window trim and I need it a little darker. Can I put a second coat of sealer up and then a coat of brown wax,To darken its overall appearance a bit?

 

[mako1]

Brown wax.Do you think the coat will adhere to that?I'm no painter just a GC but a second coat of sealer and then brown wax tells me you are no painter either.JMHO

 

[Jmayspaint]

I'm not sure what you mean by 'brown wax' but putting any wax on a stained/painted surface is only going to complicate maintenance in the future.

Toning is the way to go for darkening an already sealed surface. In your case, something like Pollyshades would probably be easiest.

 

[Pbpaints]

Mako1 thanks but no thanks..not a great comment. I'm a painter and wood finisher and...and... but I ask questions sorry.

 

[mako1]

I owned a custom cabinet shop for 14 years and was a pretty good custom finsher.Why would you want to put wax of any kind on anything to be stained ?Darker or otherwise?If you want the finish darker why would you need another coat of sealer before tinting it darker?

 

[avenge]

What type of stain and sealer did you use? Best would be a spray on toner. You could mix stain in sealer but it can become cloudy.

 

[Robie]

If I want wood a bit darker, I use Briwax. Don't buff it too much.
http://www.briwaxwoodcare.com/briwax.htm?gclid=CPqr3_mv9b4CFSUOOgod8UEADw

 

[mako1]

I have used the Briwax before but it depends on the finish.You won't get a high gloss using it if that's what your after.It also goes on top and is a wax so is not permanent.

 

[Pbpaints]

So it was a minwax stain I let it dry overnight. Then I put a coat of about 30% stain mixed with 70% poly. It darkened it up a bit so tomorrow ill do 100% poly . Then I was thinking a dark wax. Im not to worried about cloudiness, more worried about color. The previous stain was definitely a rub on top coat stain so cloudiness is not a issue. Although the factory windows where definetly a spray oil. I ****ed up

 

[Robie]

Think shellac after everything has cured.

 

[Pbpaints]

So you think I should finish up with shellac? But the client doesn't want it glossy so I am trying to avoid shellac

 

[ranteso]

Minwax is a pigmented stain. Let it stand overnight undisturbed. Using a flat stick scrape the bottom of the can and get the sludge (that's what I call it) I'm assuming it's a dark stain so it will settle out overnight.

Mix it with the poly and apply.

Your other alternative is to sand back down to bare wood and not jump the gun with the poly until you're sure you got the color correct. Easier to replace the moldings then to sand

ALWAYS provide a sample that is finished and get it signed off

 

[DavidRackley]

It depends upon which type of stain you have on your wall. If you apply wax, then it may be difficult in future to repaint. But if you want a darker color only, then apply second coat.

 

[pinwheel]

If I want wood a bit darker, I use Briwax. Don't buff it too much.
http://www.briwaxwoodcare.com/briwax.htm?gclid=CPqr3_mv9b4CFSUOOgod8UEADw

As previously mentioned, if there's ever a plan in the future to put more finish on, wax is the debil. Nothing will adhear to it.

 

[hdavis]

Nothing will adhear to it.

Except shellac.

I'm not a fan of putting wax on either, but here's a trick from my sordid past. I would use Liquid Gold as a solvent on a cloth, get a little shoe polish of the right color on it (or use 2 different ones), flip it inside out so the wax would just bleed through somewhat controlably, then go over the piece I was dealing with. Similar to using Old English on furniture, but you can do color matching to an extent.

 

[hdavis]

So it was a minwax stain I let it dry overnight. Then I put a coat of about 30% stain mixed with 70% poly. It darkened it up a bit so tomorrow ill do 100% poly . Then I was thinking a dark wax. Im not to worried about cloudiness, more worried about color. The previous stain was definitely a rub on top coat stain so cloudiness is not a issue. Although the factory windows where definetly a spray oil. I ****ed up

Hit and miss is a risky way to go. I'm assuming you're brushing this. Usually you have to scuff sand the coat to get the next one to adhere well. You can wet scuff sand using the tinted poly to get you where you want to be, but you have to wipe to see what you have - it will mud up and look pretty bad until it's wiped. It's very technique sensitive, and it works best with higher tinting levels because you're going to wipe most of the product off. The more you scuff, the darker you get. I'm dubious this will be practical on window profiles.