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spraying new drywall

31K views 27 replies 11 participants last post by  Wolfgang  
#1 ·
Sorry about posting a newbie question here but i usually hire out my painting on customer projects but i am going to try my own basement. I just bought a titan xt330 sprayer, not a contractor grade but better than wagner and i don't plan on using it much so i thought this would do. I just drywalled my basement and now need to paint it. I will be using a primer and then top coat. What tip should i use for the primer and then which tip for the top coat? Also how long should i wait for the primer to dry before spraying the top coat? And any other advice/tips you might have for a first time sprayer. Thanks for your advice and time.
 
#2 · (Edited)
I usually prime with a .15 tip (theoretically a 15" spray pattern). Latex primer will dry very fast. If your looking for smooth wall, sand the primer. If your looking for really smooth wall, spray a high build primer then sand. I usually step down to a .06 tip for the paint. Back roll everything or you will get flashing. If I have a ceiling & wall 2 color situation I spray the ceiling color and then just roll the walls. Spraying takes a long time to become proficient. Don't get bumbed out if it looks bad, just sand reprime and try it again. Big hint - clean the hell out of your sprayer when your done. Never use it for oil base and latex in the same day, it can gum it up. I personally never use mine for oil base. Good luck
 
#5 · (Edited)
Well then, spray your ceilings then cut in and roll the walls. Spraying walls is usually reserved for commercial projects or new construction where only 1 color will be used and time is an issue.
Enjoy your new sprayer, when you are finished run some diluted radiator fluid through the pump (not the hose and gun) it will prevent the inner workings from rusting.

EDIT: Use a 515 tip for the ceiling, that will give you a 10" fan and blow some serious paint. Be sure to turn the pressure down to around 3/4.
 
#7 ·
i'm not sure how powerfull the low end titans are, but if it will handle a 515... that's the tip. if you feel a bit reluctant then use a 513 which sprays less product and will let you work slower. when the primer has no glare, it's dry. if your top coat has any sheen at all, consider back rolling.... spray out about 6 to 10 feet then go over with the roller with full strokes (insert joke here) in the same direction.
 
#12 ·
Spray your ceilings with the 517. Then spray your trim, i like to use a 310 FF tip for bigger mouldings. If your mouldings are small then use a 210ff tip. Then cut in and roll your walls, Sand your walls down, go over the walls with a light and some mud. Prime your mud spots then put 2 more coats of finish on the walls. Drop back and put your finish on your base.
 
#13 ·
as mentiones above, spray and backroll the ceilings and walls. If you are using a eggshell finish on the walls use a primer that offers good sheen holdout. Avoid a cheap PVA primer. You may want to brush and roll the finish coat on the walls and trim. (will avoid overspray on the ceilings)
Have fun with your new sprayer (don't inject yourself wit the paint) LOL
 
#20 ·
Ya it did a great job and was plenty for what i need. Not going to see much use besides the occasional room here and there. Just hope it works when i need it. What is the best way to store them long term? I did alot of searching and reading and got mixed opinions. I flushed everything good with water and then with mineral spirits. Then primed it with mineral spirits and left the switch on prime. Took the gun and hose off to dry and then squirted some of the pump oil in the upper pump hole and took off the pick up hose. Hopefully this is right. Thanks again for everyones help, made the job go super easy and now my basement s some color!
 
#24 ·
vandy and sons

ok,
heres what you do.
using a 415, 417, 515, or 517, spray and backroll your primecoat on the walls first, then you prime and finish your cielings via spray and backroll, then you do your enamel package which I like a 210 for trim and doors, but I will occasionally use a 310 on doors too. finally, vigorously sticksand your walls, dusk and mask off your enamel work where necessary, and cut and roll your finish coats on the walls as needed.

fyi: heres how you read a spray tip. double the first number, then the first number indicates the width of your fan from 12" away from the surface. the higher the number the wider your fan the second two numbers indicate the amount of material discharging. the bigger the numbers, the heavier the material

ex: 415 (8" fan with a .0015 orfice)
 
#28 ·
ok,
heres what you do.
using a 415, 417, 515, or 517, spray and backroll your primecoat on the walls first, then you prime and finish your cielings via spray and backroll, then you do your enamel package which I like a 210 for trim and doors, but I will occasionally use a 310 on doors too. finally, vigorously sticksand your walls, dusk and mask off your enamel work where necessary, and cut and roll your finish coats on the walls as needed.

fyi: heres how you read a spray tip. double the first number, then the first number indicates the width of your fan from 12" away from the surface. the higher the number the wider your fan the second two numbers indicate the amount of material discharging. the bigger the numbers, the heavier the material

ex: 415 (8" fan with a .0015 orfice)
Thanks for setting him straight. Makes me wonder what his area of expertise is cause it sure aint sprayers.:whistling
 
#25 ·
spraying open drywall

I'm a remodeler that does a lot of drywall work. I've always rolled the primer. Primer is always included in my price (nothing like a coat of paint to show a mistake). I have been agonizing over putting out the $ for a airless. My painting buddies say get a 440 i but I see them buying expensive tips and taking a lot of time taping off. I ask is it worth the $ for primering drywall. I'll leave the colors for the homeowners or real painters.
 
#26 ·
I'm a remodeler that does a lot of drywall work. I've always rolled the primer. Primer is always included in my price (nothing like a coat of paint to show a mistake). I have been agonizing over putting out the $ for a airless. My painting buddies say get a 440 i but I see them buying expensive tips and taking a lot of time taping off. I ask is it worth the $ for primering drywall. I'll leave the colors for the homeowners or real painters.
Go do an intro, then comeback and start your own thread, trust me it will go over alot better with the fella's around here if you do.