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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I usually take the doors off the cabinets and lay them flat on a 2X6 that's wrapped in paper. There I sand wipe prime and paint them. Then, flip them. The thing I run into sometimes is screwing up the finished side while working on the other side. I'm sure there are better ways to do this.
 

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I use anything handy that will span the distance needed and sink drywall screws through it, making sure some of the screw is exposed on the other side. The sharp points don't leave much of a trail behind when the door is laid on them. Do the backs first and turn them so any marks left are on the back.
 

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Yep, use to be called a nail board. Now everyone uses screws.
 

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Yes.... but if you want to go high-tech..... some DS invented a little pyramid shapped piece of plastic.... probably at a rediculous price.

Saw it in some magazine....



(I guess it might add some convenience?)
 

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I save all my triangle shaped 45 degree rips from the tablesaw & use them as spacers on our tables. As said, spray the backs first & let them dry good before flipping & doing the fronts.
 

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I usually spray my cabinet doors on top of a 5 with some rags on it. I do always spray the backs first though, people are not as angry if I have to touch up a spot on the inside of a door as they would be of it was on the face.
 

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What are you using for the finish coat? I do mine pretty mush the same except I've racking in my shop that will hold 50 doors, made them out of 3/4 ply and put masking tape on the edge the door will sit on. If I can find strips of felt I will glue them to the ply. I always do a clear on top the finish color and let it dry a day before I flip it, and yes finish the back side first.
 

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I need to speak with this Leo. My cats are all in a shivel.
 

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This what I made for a drying rack. If I'm using something that dries slowly but I need it done quickly, I'll use the nail boards. This is mostly for shellac and lacquer.



I do use those plastic pyramids on a turntable when I'm spraying. They were a gift and they do work well.
 

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I hang mine using the Rockler hooks. I don't have any issues with the finish running.

Also use drying racks.

I've bent some scrap aluminum into stand offs, and got a bunch of the plastic pyramids when the Woodcraft closed near here.

The cradle was just "hanging" around when I sprayed it.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·

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Radical Basement Dweller
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Very nice. I may have to steal your idea.
Have at it. Kreg jig, some poplar, Forstner bit, a scrap of plywood, 4 casters and some conduit.
I have to change the casters though. They are too small. I'll replace with rubber 3" ones.
 

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Here's mine

 

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The ones I pictured are a built up standard. No drilling. 3/4" ply side, 3/4" spacer with 3/4" gap between spacers, 3/4" side.

Tom
 

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Yeah, I don't like hanging and spraying vertically. By the time I thin down the material to push it through an HVLP it tends to sag and run.
I started with a $700 Asturo HVLP 2 quart remote pot years ago. I always thinned the lacquer and always had runs.
That unit went south and I bought a cheap ($70) Porter Cable gravity feed unit in an emergency. I don't thin the lacquer at all anymore and can't tell you how much better my spraying results are with this cheap-ass gun compared to what was considered a pretty nice setup.
 
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