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Hey Guys and Gals!

Im new here so please go easy on me. I have been lurking around these forums for the past week or so and have noticed a lot of questions relating to spray foam insulation. I am a representative with a major spray foam manufacturer and wanted to make myself available to try and answer any questions regarding products or applications that you may have. I'm going to do my best to stay active on these forums and answer all questions posted in this thread and on other threads related to spray foam. I want to test my knowledge as well so feel free to try to stump me with your questions. I welcome the challenge! :thumbsup:
 

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Welcome Brandon,

We can always use someone of your caliber/degree of the spray foam field are these parts.
 
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Welcome

I worked very briefly for a company who did SF Insulation (Demilec) and waterproofing out here in the Chicagoland area.

I'm hoping to be able to bid more SF in my projects. I think it's the wave of the future for Insulating. If the price of oil doesn't wreak havoc on the SF manufacturers, it should IMO take over.

I look forward to testing you. I'm definitely not an expert. Up North though we battle heat and cold, so be prepared for Ice Dam questions and the like.
 

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Spray foam attic

Hi Brian I am going to have SF installed in an attic space that has T&G 1x6 pine nailed directly to collar ties, there is no backing to attic space. I need to cover attic side with something ie. (plastic, paper, tyvex??) to keep foam from coming thru to living space. I am wondering if plastic would be ok and not react or breakdown with SF being sprayed onit. Any suggestions?? Thanks:clap:
 

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Hi Brian I am going to have SF installed in an attic space that has T&G 1x6 pine nailed directly to collar ties, there is no backing to attic space. I need to cover attic side with something ie. (plastic, paper, tyvex??) to keep foam from coming thru to living space. I am wondering if plastic would be ok and not react or breakdown with SF being sprayed onit. Any suggestions?? Thanks:clap:
In your situation, I think it would be best to apply your spray foam to the underside of the roof deck and avoid the T&G altogether. Is there a reason why you want to spray onto the floor of the attic?
 

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Brandon I have a question about foam that I have been looking for. I have a few customers with steel blds. shops that want to spray foam them but are concernd about rodents, so do they offer any type on rodent inhibitor you can add to the foam?
 

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Hey Brandon I want to air seal the T&G. The ceiling is 16yrs old and needs to be sealed heat coming thru all T&G joints. Also concerned about ventilation against roof deck! I plan on first sealing up ceiling and adding 1" foam under roof deck to keep venting open to ridge. There is a huge ice dam problem on this Cape style house. The owner is concerned about losing venting under roof deck. We plan on sealing the heat loss area first. Then see where we are at with the snow melt. Thank you again for your insight. Marc
 

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Brandon I have a question about foam that I have been looking for. I have a few customers with steel blds. shops that want to spray foam them but are concernd about rodents, so do they offer any type on rodent inhibitor you can add to the foam?
Im a little confused about your question... The foam itself is not a food source for rodents, so no they will not be eating it. It is possible that they could burrow through the foam, just like they could with any other type of insulation. Using a closed cell foam might make their lives more difficult as it is a much denser product. As far as my company goes, our spray foams are non-toxic and odor free which means they do not offer any special rodent inhibiting qualities. Might i suggest finding a good exterminator? :gunsmilie:
 

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Hey Brandon I want to air seal the T&G. The ceiling is 16yrs old and needs to be sealed heat coming thru all T&G joints. Also concerned about ventilation against roof deck! I plan on first sealing up ceiling and adding 1" foam under roof deck to keep venting open to ridge. There is a huge ice dam problem on this Cape style house. The owner is concerned about losing venting under roof deck. We plan on sealing the heat loss area first. Then see where we are at with the snow melt. Thank you again for your insight. Marc
Marc,

My best suggestion would be to go through and use caulk to seal the T&G on the attic side, then go ahead with the spray foam. Covering the entire floor with plastic, paper, etc. will prevent the foam from filling all cavities and will not give you the air barrier that you are looking for with this type of insulation. Also, the plastic in particular could cause moisture and humidity problems in the house.
 

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Foam Question

Hello,

I am wondering about the performance and durability of using a closed cell foam on brick foundation walls for basement remodeling. Is there any real world experience in this application?

Thanks,

Chris
 

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Hello,

I am wondering about the performance and durability of using a closed cell foam on brick foundation walls for basement remodeling. Is there any real world experience in this application?

Thanks,

Chris
Hey Chris,

Can you give me some more details about your project? There are tons of examples of this kind of application in the real world and there are installers who have done thousands of these types of jobs. Without further detail, it is hard to point you in the right direction. Are you talking about doing the inside wall, outside wall, are the walls made of block or do you have concrete walls with a brick facade? If you let me know, I can point you toward some info that will help you get setup for the job. Let me know!

Brandon
 

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Up here in Northern MN all the other insulation contractors and myself feel that spraying the roof deck is not the way to go, unless its a vault. 3" or cc foam is sprayed down on the sheetrock and blown to an R50-60 is how its done around here most of the time.
 

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Up here in Northern MN all the other insulation contractors and myself feel that spraying the roof deck is not the way to go, unless its a vault. 3" or cc foam is sprayed down on the sheetrock and blown to an R50-60 is how its done around here most of the time.
Curious, how do you feel about 2 inches closed cell (a good vapor barrier) mixed with High density glass wool? I do this in area where venting is not really going to be code or just is not worth it to loose the R (Cape Cods mainly with a tight devils peak).

I have even done Hybrids of closed / open with something else as the ignition barrier.

Whats your thoughts?
 

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Frank, I am not a spray foam guy, I do retrofit foam (not retrofoam) Too many srpay foam guys in my area driving the price down on that. The norm up here is 3" then blown on top like I posted before. If i remember I'll ask the guy I sub out all my spray foam to.
 

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Brandon, would you recommend cc or oc for its sound dampening qualities. This would be used for res construction. Thanks
 

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Brandon, would you recommend cc or oc for its sound dampening qualities. This would be used for res construction. Thanks
Either work but.....closed cell is your best bet. Sound moves on air, the open cell has more air pockets. Is that about right Brandon?
 

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Frank, I am not a spray foam guy, I do retrofit foam (not retrofoam) Too many srpay foam guys in my area driving the price down on that. The norm up here is 3" then blown on top like I posted before. If i remember I'll ask the guy I sub out all my spray foam to.
Thanks, and I feel your pain about the lowballers. I do everything BPI and above, it tends to drive my prices up. I do this to offer what others will not or can not do. I am not selling to the lowest price guy!!
 

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Brandon, would you recommend cc or oc for its sound dampening qualities. This would be used for res construction. Thanks
Although all Spray Foam will provide sound dampening to your project, I would recommend open cell as the best performing product. My company has literature which covers these properties which can be found on our website. I will send you a PM with the link.
 

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Hi Brandon. I'm formulating a plan for an attic; my attic. It's a century old 4 square 2 story w/ walk up attic. Balloon framed wall, roof rafters of both 2x4 and 2x6 lumber, so the inside framing will have to be firred out to bring a flush surface for drywall. 12/12 pitch; no interior stub walls, sharp 45 degree angle. Ridge vents at about 6'-6" and 11'-6". The house is about 25x25 so there would be quite a bit of area.

I'm in Iowa and it gets very cold in the winter (I've seen minus 100 wind chills) and in the summer pretty warm and humid and so ventilation and condensation are a concern to me.

I've seen various concepts but my feeling is that in my climate I need my vapor barrier on the inside, the warm side.

I have skip sheathing over my roof rafters w/ OSB stapled over that. I keep thinking that ventilation, allowing about a 1" vent area to the ridge vents is good, maybe optimum.
On the other hand while working on a similar project where closed cell was sprayed the applicator touted the benefits of the closed cell, sprayed in rafter bays against the bottom of the roof; waterproof, high insulation, low filtration, racking strength ect. I have to wonder though; what happens when/if you need to re-sheath the roof? That would seem like a nightmare. I'm just wondering, on my own house whether to just do the expedient and better insulated to looking down the road at repair, maintenance and the issues of ventilation, which sometimes are a little murky. I keep holding off work, trying to come up with the BEST, not neccessarily the cheapest, since I will be doing my own work.

By the way....... the project I worked this summer was creating a sleeping loft in a similar old house. We punched through a ceiling into the unused attic space for a sleeping area with ladder access. This winter the snow has melted off every area of the roof EXCEPT where the spray foam was applied (in that limited loft area, sloped roof). It is clearly a great product. The loft addition is very warm.

Thanks,
Willy
 
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