Just make sure you don't cut it to close. I had a job several years ago I did spacing for 3 15/16" and when the inspector came a week later we found out that the spindles had shrunk (pressure treated) more than 1/16" each which ment out spaces turned out to be 4 1/16" +. He made us rip them all off and redo it (the #!!&**). Just so you know, not to close.reveivl said:This won't hurt a bit If the distance between posts is 12' 0" and the spindles are 1.5" with a space less than 4" between spindles you will need 144/(1.5+4)=26 and change. Round it down (because you must have LESS than 4") to 26, now, 26 spindles @ 1.5"=39" of spindle, that leaves 144"-39"=105" of space between them. With 26 spindles you have 27 spaces (25 between them and one at each end) so, 105"/27=3.89" Cut yourself a spacer that big, start in the center and work both ways so that any error in the cutting of the spacer ends up equally at the ends near the posts and you're done, Did that hurt? :Thumbs:
To each-his-own, - - but I believe most people, - - and for that matter, most contractors, - - would prefer to have a minimum # of 'pickets', - - less money, less work, less repetition, and most importantly, a less 'busy' pattern. Most decks are built out in the open to be, - - well, - - to be open. But hey, whatever works for you!!cdac said:post to post (inside to inside)= x
divide x by 5" (5.5" is about max for spacing requirements, go with 3" or 4" for a tighter fill)
I agree with Tom R about the story board. It is the easiest way to do it. I have one for 3.5" spacing and one for 3.75" spacing (for those who don't want the 3.5" spacing)Tom R wrote:
".....If you, or anyone for that matter, prefers say, a 3 1/2" spacing, - - you could just make a story-board and center the pattern between posts, - - the same 'board' would work for every single job/application." :Thumbs:
I agree too with Decks Etc. It may cost a little more iinitially, but it is better then having to re-do the whole thing!Decks Etc wrote:
".....I always space all my spindles at 3 1/2". For one, I don't have to worry about any shrinkage. And two, even though it costs me a bit more (1-2 spindles per section of railing), I would rather not have any call-backs or problems with inspectors over a 1/16th". The cost of a few spindles is nothing compared to having to take the time to go back and replace a complete section of railing, especially a few months later." :Thumbs:
Mike Finley said:I understand the usefulness of the baluster forumlas for uniforimity, but not in regard to saving lumber.
The only way I can THINK OF that you could use dividers, - - is to set them to 5 1/2", - - then 'walk-off' the distance from the inside of your first post to a point 1 1/2" past the inside of your second post, - - count how many 'steps' it takes to get PAST your 1 1/2" mark, - - measure the distance between the 1 1/2" mark and your 'over-step mark', - - then divide your number of steps into that difference, - - then subtract that number from 4", - - and that will give you your exact spacing. No question it would work, - - but it seems slow and primitive, - - and ultimately still makes you do some math.old27 said:Do any of you guys use dividers to lay out baluster spacing?