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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Talked to my dry wall guy and he suggested using this method for helping to sound proof a ceiling:
The method requires attaching one side of the channel to the existing joist,through the existing drywall or sound board.
Then,new drywall is installed,fastened to the metal channel,and allowing it to "sag".
Theory is the points of contact are reduced,isolating new drywall from direct sound/vibration.

Anyone had any experience with this method?Good?Bad?Things to watch for when installing?
 

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The Ultimate Wire Hider
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Anyone had any experience with this method?Good?Bad?Things to watch for when installing?
One thing to understand about soundproofing is that it works when you provide an air gap between layers (as in your proposed scenario) because when sound hits the drywall, most of it reflects back and a percentage of it transfers through. So when it hits the second layer, that small percentage reflects back while an even smaller percentage transfers through.. and so on.

The mistake that many people make is that they stuff the ceiling with insulation and install two layers of drywall on top of each other.. thus creating more sound conductivity than isolation.

It's the same way that a bullet can go through several sheets of plywood stacked together but if you spread the sheets out, it will slow the bullet down as it penetrates each layer.
 
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Talked to my dry wall guy and he suggested using this method for helping to sound proof a ceiling:
The method requires attaching one side of the channel to the existing joist,through the existing drywall or sound board.
Then,new drywall is installed,fastened to the metal channel,and allowing it to "sag".
Theory is the points of contact are reduced,isolating new drywall from direct sound/vibration.

Anyone had any experience with this method?Good?Bad?Things to watch for when installing?

I know Ive done this on party walls years ago. And for some dumb reason I seem to recall doing it once on a ceiling and thinking how crazy it was because the whole thing was bouncing while we hung it.

Insulation does a decent job of deadening sound too.

What will this application be on?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the responses guys.The area I'm doing is in a walk out basement,where three of the outside walls are completely above grade and
one wall has 4' of foundation below grade.The resilient channel will be on the uninsulated ceiling,over existing drywall, in this area.I plan on using 5/8" drywall.

My concerns are with the humidity level,since all the exposed water lines have been wrapped with insulation to prevent dripping in the past.
These pipes will be buried in the ceiling but accessible via a chase.

With the recent concern over the use of light weight drywall failing.I wanted to ensure that this method doesn't accelerate or contribute to future problems.
My yard only carries the LW dry wall,so I guess I will look for other sources of material to eliminate that concern.

Two dry wall contractors suggested the same system so I'm confident in its performance,I just can't wrap my head around the floating/bouncing as mentioned by Big Shoe.
I'd imagine the walls are gently butted to the ceiling to alleviate any further sagging that may cause the taped corners to fail,but knowing what happens to wet drywall,and the inherent humidity level in this application,couldn't the drywall also curl up at the corners and cause the tape to fail?

I've informed the HO of my concern,and hope he controls the humidity as I suggested,but people forget and any failure of the system could come back to bite me,so I want to take as many precautions as possible here.
 

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We hung a million dollar theater once, in a private residence. The whole ceiling was suspended/hung by shock absorbing springs. All of the corners had a 1/4'' gap to be caulked. So the "bounce" affect should work.

I wouldn't worry about tape failure if it is done properly. Use quality primer and paint.

Good luck.
 

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Talked to my dry wall guy and he suggested using this method for helping to sound proof a ceiling:
The method requires attaching one side of the channel to the existing joist,through the existing drywall or sound board.
Then,new drywall is installed,fastened to the metal channel,and allowing it to "sag".
Theory is the points of contact are reduced,isolating new drywall from direct sound/vibration.

Anyone had any experience with this method?Good?Bad?Things to watch for when installing?
Might try adding empty eggshell cardboard cartons in the sag space. Each empty hole in the carton acts as an absorber for the vibration. It basically prevents transfer of one problem area to another.
 
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