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I am starting on my 24 x 28 shop and will be doing most of the work by myself. The shop will have 10' walls and a 2nd floor built from I joist. I work in the trades but I do not frame and would like to ask 2 questions:

Question #1- If the building code in your area follows the IBC and you are framing the walls with 10' 2x4 and verticle 1/2" 4x8 OSB how much blocking between the stud will you need. I understand that I will need one where the 2 OSB boards meet to complete the 10' wall, but I was told that I will need possibly 2 more lines of blocking particularly on the (2)24' walls that support the I Joist on the 2nd floor. Is this true.

Question #2- I will be framing these walls on a concrete slab with bolts. I cannot lift a full size wall over these by myself. A older framer that I know suggested fitting the treated 2x4 bottom plate over the bolts and secure, then nail the studs to the top plate(in sections that you can lift)and lift that onto the bottom plate securing by toe nailing into the bottom plate. Will this be adequate and pass inspection if done properly. If you have a better idea I sure would like to hear it.
 

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Check with local codes for question #1
As far as #2 goes, why not save the extra plate, and frame the wall without sheathing and lift into place. Sheath afterwards. Sometimes its more accurate to do it this way when working on a slab that may or may not be perfectly flat and level.
 

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I am starting on my 24 x 28 shop and will be doing most of the work by myself. The shop will have 10' walls and a 2nd floor built from I joist. I work in the trades but I do not frame and would like to ask 2 questions:

Question #1- If the building code in your area follows the IBC and you are framing the walls with 10' 2x4 and verticle 1/2" 4x8 OSB how much blocking between the stud will you need. I understand that I will need one where the 2 OSB boards meet to complete the 10' wall, but I was told that I will need possibly 2 more lines of blocking particularly on the (2)24' walls that support the I Joist on the 2nd floor. Is this true.

Question #2- I will be framing these walls on a concrete slab with bolts. I cannot lift a full size wall over these by myself. A older framer that I know suggested fitting the treated 2x4 bottom plate over the bolts and secure, then nail the studs to the top plate(in sections that you can lift)and lift that onto the bottom plate securing by toe nailing into the bottom plate. Will this be adequate and pass inspection if done properly. If you have a better idea I sure would like to hear it.
Why would you need blocking between any studs when using osb whether you run it horizontally or vertically? Is this a Regional thing?

As far as nailing your shoe/plate down and toenailing the studs, this is done every day where I'm from and meets code the same way facenailing and sheathing a wall before you stand it up. Nothing to worry about when toenailing.
 

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We have to do it here.

My understanding is , on corners for the first 4' you have to block any joint of the sheeting .
Must be a Regional thing. We don't block anything when running horizontal sheathing. I rarely use osb, but even when I did when running horizontally or vertically, never once installed any blocking.
 

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Blocking is a regional thing. I had to do it on my addtions because I ran the osb horizontially. If I ran it vertically there would be no blocking.
The Inspector told me it was for shear. I haven't framed in about 15 yrs and I wasn't about to argue with him for an hours worth of blocking
 

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Must be a Regional thing. We don't block anything when running horizontal sheathing. I rarely use osb, but even when I did when running horizontally or vertically, never once installed any blocking.
Yep it is, people quit running horizontal sheathing about 12 years ago around here, can't have a splice with nothing behind it.

But for the thread starter, you can buy 4 x 10 sheets of osb that are made for 10 foot walls, it would eliminate the need for any blocking if it is required.
 

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From the questions you are asking it looks like this is too big of a job for you. I would suggest that you hire an experienced framer that would let you be his helper in order to gain some experience and to be part of your project. You will save more than what he would charge in the savings of time, material, and rework. You may also want to check in on the DIY forum.
 

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No better way to learn than to try! There has been so many situations in my life where if I would have listened to NWBuilder's advice I would have been stopped cold in my tracks. God gave us a brain, and Al Gore gave us the Internet, and with both of those resources the information is out there to learn how to do just about anything.
 
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