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So you're going to be that way, huh?

2400 Views 9 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  App-ironworks
Started in on an exhaust leak between the head and manifold at 9:00am.

I just got done.

5 broken bolts, 2 at the head and all 3 at the pipe flange.

Had to pull the inner fender, loosen the cab mounts and Jack the cab up to drill out the rearmost bolt in the head.

Ugh.

No more leak, though. Exhaust leaks annoy the crap out of me.

Next up, tires and paint. But thats a job for another day. Right now I'm going to sit in my driveway and listen to my newly quiet small block and drink a Yuengling or 2.

Vehicle Car Auto part Engine
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This is the kind of thing I hate. Start off with something that will take X hours if all goes well. Next thing you know it looks like an exploded parts diagram.:laughing:
I would have turned the radio up
I drove 70's & 80's chevy vans that had exhaust manifold leaks from the 2nd day you owned them, I got used to the noise.
My 97 f150 had that leak. Had to take it into the shop to get it fixed. Mechanic said all but one bolt snapped off. That truck was one nightmare after the other.
Try Kroil to loosen the rust. I did mine a couple years ago. Kroiled them for two days and all bolts came out without any problems.

http://www.kanolabs.com/
Yeah, I did the Kroil thing, no luck this time.

Before drilling I even tried the old welder's trick of welding a nut on the broken end of the bolt. Done that many dozens of times and, till now have had a 100% success rate even on exhaust of other vehicles. Not any more. It only worked on 1 of the 5 little buggers.

Drilling is always a last resort for me.

To add insult to injury the friggin' easy out broke off in one of the bolts. Ooh, I cussed just a little then.

Had to use the hot wrench very carefully on that. Luckily most of it came out and as I was just hitting the end of the bolt remains with the left handed drill it caught and backed the stub right out.

On the rearmost bolt in the head I ended up drilling a little crooked, since the firewall was in the way, and ended up tapping the hole and enlarging the hole in the manifold so the off center bolt had some wiggle room.

Tell you what stuff like this makes me realize I'm getting older. 30 years ago this task would have resulted in thrown tools, smashed body panels and lots of yelling copious amounts of swear words. This time I think I only swore twice when the easy out broke.
I guess you were do one to be a PIA. :laughing:
I was actually lucking. It happened when out of state and was staying with a friend. He happened to be a mechanic with his shop in his front yard!
Before drilling I even tried the old welder's trick of welding a nut on the broken end of the bolt. Done that many dozens of times and, till now have had a 100% success rate even on exhaust of other vehicles. Not any more. It only worked on 1 of the 5 little buggers.
I feel your pain. I had the same thing happen to me but I didn't have a gas ax. Wound up using a ultra small carbide ball end rotary bit to remove the easy out. PITA out was more like it. Like you I'm a big fan of the welded nut trick. Steel was my first love now it's wood. :thumbsup:
To add insult to injury the friggin' easy out broke off in one of the bolts. Ooh, I cussed just a little then.

Had to use the hot wrench very carefully on that. Luckily most of it came out and as I was just hitting the end of the bolt remains with the left handed drill it caught and backed the stub right out.
So if you were to buy a welder for small jobs like that what would it be?
If budget allows a Miller Passport Plus is great. For cheaper options a small Hobart handler is a good rig for a good price.
So if you were to buy a welder for small jobs like that what would it be?
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