Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,471 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I am curious as to how others are removing them. I have tried ViceGrips and it just messes up the jaws. I'm thinking of tapping them with my little 32 oz. hammer, I think that they should yield.

Any other ideas?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,471 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Got to get them out, rust stains + appearance + rep.

All have broken at the head, I have about 1/2" to work with. Jiffy shutters from the hurricains (plywood). I'm witholding many comments.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,858 Posts
Hmm, - - did you try tightening the jaws of your drill 'directly' around them, - - and then drilling in reverse?? Preferably a 'keyed' chuck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,471 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Tom, I'm not sure if my drill/driver has carbide jaws. If they did, they would slip.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,471 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Tom, the jaws are about the same hardness as ViceGrips. A guess is Rockwell 56, never looked it up. TapCons are harder.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,858 Posts
Yeah, but tell me if I'm wrong, - - vice grips 'hold' their grip, - - a monkey wrench 'tightens' it's grip as you turn.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,471 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I've already welded some 3/8" bolts to the tail end of these suckers. It just takes out the temper and they break off at the weld.

Tomorrow I'll try the pounding technique. Theoretically, if you can drive it in one thread length, all bonds should be broken. This does not apply to wood, which is a fiberous material.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
Teetorbilt said:
Got to get them out, rust stains + appearance + rep.

All have broken at the head, I have about 1/2" to work with. Jiffy shutters from the hurricains (plywood). I'm witholding many comments.

Aren't they aluminum,not steel?

I would try using a pair of channel locks,if not able to move then grind flush, and drill with titanium bit inward to recess into the block/stucco. Seal it off and refinish,(if they can rust) they will not without oxygen.
 

·
Carpenter/fencing
Joined
·
808 Posts
these tapcons are more trouble than there worth,it sounds like but the time you are done beating the remains of the tapcon,chipping in a little ,cracking off the rest and mortaring the hole don't sound too bad,sounds like you've spent too much time on it already.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Drill

Try drilling a 1/8 th hole or two right beside the threads of the tapcon. This should allow a bit more play for them to come out. Mortor or hydraulic cement in the holes after and you're done.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
39 Posts
This is yet another reason for me to dislike Tapcons. I rarely, if ever, use them anymore. I think they are over rated. There are so many other options now that I would rather use instead.
R
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,858 Posts
Myself, - - I like tapcons, - - use them all the time, - - main thing is going only 3/4" or 1' maximum embedment. Teetor, how about trying your '(R)ammer-drill'??
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
14,078 Posts
Tapcons rust?

I think your solution involves thinking out side the box, don't try to take them out, try to seal them up. Epoxy the broken end if they really do rust and then move on.

But, I have never heard of a Tapcon rusting.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
313 Posts
You can get a Lennox Arbor 5L which is basically an open end gadget with a set screw. But the soft metal of a Tapcon would likely yield before extracting. Grind off the head, jerk the piece out and break off, or grind, the old anchor back to the substrate.

I have no use for Tapcon anchors. I can achieve equal fastening with a quarter inch sds bit in a rotary hammer, driving any combination of 16d and 8d nails, depending on the thickness of the wood.

To me, Tapcons are as useless as powder actuated nail guns. Too complicated and expensive. Too much trouble.

Eh....say Teetor...has my talk got any of those old Tapcons out yet? Hate it for ya.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top