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So we're wrapping up that weird deck project, the deck on top of the existing DexoTex roof deck and have been wading through the requirements being demanded by the AHJ.

Even though it's nestled down like a baby bird in a nest with walls surrounding it on all sides one of the requirements was that it has to be attached to the structure which wasn't surprising (client was hoping no holes in the structure per HOA request but we told them that was very unlikely to be permitted). We wanted to attach it to the said walls but the city's engineer balked at that and demanded that we attach to the framing supporting the existing roof deck.

We've come up with the detail and are going to screw 2 lag screws every 48" through a continuous wood plate that will be on rubber pads. We're planning on drilling a pilot hole and shooting either polyurethane or silicone into it and then screwing in the screws with a washer on top that will have some under it.

Any opinions on which is better or is there something that is better than either of those selections? Where we are is very temperate, never freezes and very rarely gets above 100 degrees.

Thanks for any suggestions or insight on this question,
Rio
 

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We do floating decks over membrane roofs every so often we NEVER fix through the membrane shear weight is ample to keep it there.
Or you could consider gluing it to the deck?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
We do floating decks over membrane roofs every so often we NEVER fix through the membrane shear weight is ample to keep it there.
Or you could consider gluing it to the deck?
The hope was to not go through the membrane but the city is worried about a Wizard of Oz wind event happening and taking the deck over the rainbow, or at least down the block. They won't allow us to attach to the nearby existing walls as they belong to other units and are insisting we attach to the existing roof deck structure.
 

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Deck's already built? So these continuous wood plates are going on the outside of your deck? Or were they installed when you framed up the deck?

If you have to punch through the roof deck membrane, and you haven't put down the continuous wood plate yet (I'm having difficulties visualizing your project),
put down flashing tape below where the plate will go
add globs of mastic (roof sealant) on top of flashing tape where lags will go (predrill plate and mark hole locations on tape)
Drop plate down, run lags in (I'd probably use silicone over polyurethane where you were suggesting)
Run second layer of flashing tape (9" wide) over wood plate, lag heads and down to roof deck on either side. That way, no water will get to the lags and lag holes.

There would have been other solutions w/ strapping but they would've needed to be installed before the new deck went down.

Got pics?


Mac
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the feedback. I'm contacting a company I've worked with in the past that has all sorts of caulkings and waterproofing techniques and will post what they suggest and at that time put up a detail (not constructed as it's going to be changed so no photos).
 
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