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Roofing Contractor
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260 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am installing siding on a built on addition to a mobile home. The addition was built without sofits, and only has roof edge at the top where I plan on finishing my siding. Normally there are sofits to run the J-trim along which protect water from getting in behind the J-trim.

Since there are no sofits if I were to put the J-trim along the roof edge it would create a little ledge where water could run off of and get in behind the siding, which I dont want to happen.

What Should I do? Any help greatly appreciated.
 

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Sawdust Sweeper
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690 Posts
I have never run into this problem before personally but if it was me I would first check with the vinyl siding manufacturer and see what different profiles of trim they offer to see if you can make something work. Other than that you could go ahead and run the j at the top of the wall and run a piece of L metal or drip edge under the roofing and lip over the j so water will shed. You could probably even just finish it off with L metal at the top and skip the j. No matter how you slice it this is probably going to look kind of funky. Remember too that all vinyl siding allows some water in- most of it has weeps on the underside of the faux clapboards to allow the water to escape- so make sure that you are thorough with your tyvek, tyvek tape, and make sure that you flash windows and doors properly.
 

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Roofing Contractor
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260 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Since I am redoing the roof as well should I install sofits to correct the problem? The entire mobile home was done in tin siding before, and I am installing vinyl siding over it. Does the tin have to be wraped with tyvec since it is broken in several spots or should the tin be alltogether removed? Or is tyvec just plain not required.

The home was has a tin roof with no overhang, it just wraps around. There is a little cm wide strip around the top of the entire trailer (minus the additions) to catch rain water and divert it from streaming down the siding.. The strip is no longer attached in some places and is hanging there waiting to fall.

How should I approach this in regards to creating a seal at the top? Should I reinstall the steel strip and install the j trim up to it or install gutters all along the trailer and use a roofing sealant to enssure the water doesnt get in behind the gutters?

Any help greatly apreciated.
 

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A) This guy lists his trade as a painter

B) He is now doing roofing

C) He is now doing siding

D) He is asking questions that show he shouldn't be doing either

To top it off its an "addition" on something with 4 wheels and a hitch I don't think its going to matter HOW you run the siding
 
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Roofing Contractor
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260 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the great insight BUT I am just asking a question here. Just because my primary source of income stems from painting contracts doesn't mean there isn't oppertunity in other contracts to generate income without having a ton of knowledge in the feild or being a "Master Carpenter".

I have done roofing and siding work in the past as a installer but was not fortunate to experienced with all situations. Thats why I have taken the time to write the post, in hopes of gaining some insight to a situation I haven't formerly been exposed to.

Im sure you started your contracting carear knowing everything BUT I haven't been that fortunate. Mabey next time you could take the time to shed some light upon a situation or just STFU.
 

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Thanks for the great insight BUT I am just asking a question here. Just because my primary source of income stems from painting contracts doesn't mean there isn't oppertunity in other contracts to generate income without having a ton of knowledge in the feild or being a "Master Carpenter".

I have done roofing and siding work in the past as a installer but was not fortunate to experienced with all situations. Thats why I have taken the time to write the post, in hopes of gaining some insight to a situation I haven't formerly been exposed to.

Im sure you started your contracting carear knowing everything BUT I haven't been that fortunate. Mabey next time you could take the time to shed some light upon a situation or just STFU.

Why don't you learn on your own dime rather than a customer that is paying you to hopefully know what your supposed to be doing As a painter are you insured to do roofing and siding?

It would be like me coming on here asking you if I should put on the primer before or after the paint
 
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How About This

For Jason... If you do not extend a lip or edge you are going to have water issues. Being the roof is tin you could use a metal roof trim piece to achive this. And make sure you caulk or seal the overlaps.
 

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Head Grunt
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3,270 Posts
You may be able to use undersill trim but i think even then you will have water intrusion as it is not designed for this purpose. Sounds like you are trying to polish a turd here, might better start at the roof and work down.
 

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Contractor
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4,761 Posts
try bending a 4-6" piece of aluminum flashing that will be a hem joint at the top and 5/8" thick (or however thick your J is) ensuring it laps down the face of the J. Suppose if you're going to that trouble, just bend the metal as your upper J or tuck a piece of undersill trim under the metal.
 

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Banned
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Got a brake? Bend a cap to go under the style-d, out 3/4 and down another 1 1/2" with a hem, install siding. Also if you leave a 4" hem on the top you can nail the trim piece you made behind the siding and cover the nails. If all else fails maybe the excavators can help u figure this out.;)
 

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Roofing Contractor
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260 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
There is a bunch of rotten would behind the tin siding. Should I remove the tin, replace the wood then reinstall the tin or should I completly remove the tin and do a solid house wrap with typar. ?
 
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