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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys, I'm looking at a job of siding over a cinder block two story house. Probably steel siding. The windows that are there are trimmed out with brick on the exterior, which makes furring out around them and capping a little challenging as it will protrude further than the brick trim. I think I can make that work somehow. I'm planning on just replacement sashes for the widows, since they are all dble. hungs.

I've never done a job over block in my 35 years of doing construction. Advice would be appreciated. I was thinking of ripping, gluing and ram setting 3/4 sub flooring for stripping with 3/4 foam between. Probably should vapor barrier over that too, with all the seams in the foam. Looks like a labor intensive job to me.

Anyone that has done this have better ideas?

Thanks, mike
 

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I did 1x spruce & pine glued with foam in between and another time foam over the 1x. Its still there, I did it in 94 never had a call back or loose piece.
 

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I installed metal on couple office buildings, one w/ 2 x 4 over cinder block, & another w/ 1 x 4 over brick. I use a drive anchor from hilti, (HPS available in variety of lenghs & sizes) has plastic sabot & metal pin you hit with hammer after drilling the proper size hole. you can remove them also w/ screw driver. It goes prety quick once you get going & thing I liked is it doesn't put undue force on the base material, like soft brick. I also used small ones to mechanically fasten metal flashings to brick.
 

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Hollow or filled block?

Block can be tricky for fasteners. Had a builder throw a similar task at me once. I spent the time to screw Tap-Cons through treated vertical 2x4s. Then I had to down angle-shoot the shortest HDG nails I could get...(I think 2 ⅜" coil in my Hitachi NV65AH)

Remember. The entire weight of the siding is being transferred/concentrated onto the screws. Make sure you have enough anchors if you go that route.

It's not an optimal solution.
 

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Mike , I have done a couple of them over the years here in Great Falls. Furred it out with 1xs liquid nails and cement nails. with steel siding. this was about 20 years ago with no problems. Oh put foam board in between the furring.

If really worried about it staying because to two story could tap-cons or toggle bolts. Get to be lot of labor, so don't cut your self short on money.
 

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If the cinder block is unfinished with parging and paint then use treated. Maybe bump up to 5/4". The 1x can be wave and blow apart with the hilti.
 

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thanks everyone, I'm going to try to talk him into a good grade vinyl to try to keep weight and expense down.
Thing is a good grade of vinyl is getting close to steel and no where near the job.

I would look at the Charter Oak from Alside though or the stuff EMCO sells to.

Do you have much wind out there? If so some things need to do to make the stuff stay on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Up here the good vinyl is still about 80$ a square cheaper. Plus the labor factors in too, besides the weight difference. I do like the edco steel, but i've used the monogram vinyl and have had good luck with it.

I think sheeting over the fur outs would be good but the owners are basically fixing it up to sell and the extra cost probably isn't worth it to them.

thanks all, for the input.
 

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then eliminate the foam Mike,osb is cheaper than 3/4'' ridged foam and for what..an R3.5?

with that you will get better nailing and a straighter wall imo
 
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