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For first few courses you could use a framing square and ride around casing.
Obv. will be harder to maintain square further away from window.

Find the radial center point of your arc segment, somewhere between the lower double hungs.

install a nail, use string/tape measure/stick and pencil

hold pencil on level shingle course line where it meets matching exposure off of curved window, mark off arched course



beat, type way too slow
 

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Wouldn't one need to start
off a vertical center line,
and work out from there?

Pardon me for playing Obviousman.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The layout can be done using a stick. The concentric arcs are drawn with the stick/trammel.

I wanted to hear you shingle pros discuss cutting the shingles themselves, which are all inverted keystones in shape, the included angle decreasing as you move out.

You were going to cut them, right?

Or were you just gonna draw the lines, and let me do the shingling? :laughing:
 

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The layout can be done using a stick. The concentric arcs are drawn with the stick/trammel.

I wanted to hear you shingle pros discuss cutting the shingles themselves, which are all inverted keystones in shape, the included angle decreasing as you move out.

You were going to cut them, right?

Or were you just gonna draw the lines, and let me do the shingling? :laughing:

Sheesh!!

Do you really think you're the only one that can do this??

This is a joke, right??

What's next, semi-round lego castle?? :laughing:
 

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Eater of sins.
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Actually I have done something very similar to this, what I did was start the first course of shingle using the arch of the window, this set me up for the following. Then every subsequent course i lightly nailed a flexible oh say 1/8"-1/4" x 1-1/4" pine strip or even hardboard at my over lap. This can act as a marking guide or place the next course of shingle butt to the top.
I didn't have to do this much shingle but it did work well and I didn't need any help to get it done.
BTW I didn't nail the flexible piece directly, I nailed it on the top and bottoms of the arc just to keep it in place.
No need for trammels or any thing like that.

Andy.

Oh I forgot, lots of waste on the shingle because I score the back with a razor knife and toss the waste. No saw up high.
 

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You guys are trying to make this way harder than what it really is. I have done shakes like this before. The only one you need cut off at an angle is the first one and last one of each row. You will follow the contour of the window on the first course. For the rest of the courses, you make a simple gauge with two pieces wood. The smaller piece will be your exsposure.

TomR, you can cut them into a keystone shape if you want, but that is gonna make them look kinda funny. They will be much smaller looking than the rest of the shingles.

This ain't complicated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Don't misunderstand me. I'm not trying to portray this as rocket science. It ain't. It's just shingle carpentry.

The sketch shown here is of the first two rows of wood shingles, all ripped parallal to 6" widths, 16" long, 5" exposure. They begin atop an arch with 48" radius.

Tight at the butts, the gaps at the exposure line exceed 1/2". Clearly unacceptable for our market, where we prefer to lay them up with gaps equal to about the thickness of a penny or an 8d nail.

So we're gonna have to cut them outa breadboards.

What's your way, and why is it faster than mine?

BTW, housebuilding work sucks around here and has for about the last year. No end in sight. My waiter last night, was wearing a nice tie, and used to be a carpenter. I told him I would snap his pic, since he looked so well turned out, and he could use the pic in his Contractor Talk signature. :w00t:
 

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BTW, housebuilding work sucks around here and has for about the last year. No end in sight. My waiter last night, was wearing a nice tie, and used to be a carpenter. I told him I would snap his pic, since he looked so well turned out, and he could use the pic in his Contractor Talk signature. :w00t:

That's probably because when I was doing carpentry work up there in the summer of 1981 the work is still holding up fine 'til this day (still probably got all them '80 Olympic pins around here somewhere), - - want fries with that?? :laughing:

(come to think of it, - - it must have been the summer of '80) :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I'll quote myself from post #1. ". . . describe to us your method for accomplishing this."

Then I'll add this, for some spice: " . . . and finish it faster than I will."

It's a competitive world, isn't it? This one's going lump sum, and we are furnishing materials. Or are you still able to get fat on T&M.

Here's a hint. One of these little 8.25" saws will be real handy up there on the Genie Lift platform. And, we never wear neckties when operating table saws. OSHA rule.
 

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By the way, - - bein's it's garnering so much of your attention, - - that's not a shirt and tie, - - that's my designer shop apron, coming soon to a toolstore near you :laughing:
 

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By the way, - - bein's it's garnering so much of your attention, - - that's not a shirt and tie, - - that's my designer shop apron, coming soon to a toolstore near you :laughing:
love it, i want one!
 

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My pics of arches are from the old 110 kodack. I will see about getting them digitized.

Anyway, did alot of shakes for a while. This one had concaved walls at the bottom. A ton of Azek. Even some of you finish carpenters ought to like this one.

As far as the little bit of gap in shinlges. It doesn't matter. Really. And it will be almost undetectable even when you up close to it.
 

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