Currently working on an exterior porch and will be installing some sheet azek on the ceiling. We will be sheathing the entire ceiling with 1/2" plywood, and using glue to help bond the sheets. This will be a coffered style ceiling, and the visible azek in each square will end up about 28"x36". I will use stainless screws on the perimeter, which will end up hidden under a crown molding. Was wondering what the best fasteners will be in the field. I would like to use some stainless trim head screws here to help out the painter. Azeks site says to fasten 8" o.c. in the field, but that seems like a lot of fasteners. Has anyone used sheet Azek on a ceiling application?
Warren
I've worked extensively with sheet azek, never on a ceiling, but lots of frame & panel type stuff. I'm a huge fan of the cortex screws with bungs. As this stuff shrinks & expands like crazy I'd use the company's recommended fastening schedule. Glue everything you can too. Plumbers PVC works great for a quick bond azek glue gives the same strength bond but allows working time (I was told this directly from the manufacturer).
What's nice about the screws is that the reverse thread (that drills the bunghole) allows you to pull in or push out the material to line up 2 materials on one plane will the glue sets. Once set, you can finish screwing in.
Not sure if that helps or not, just throwing out what I know.
This is all azek from a job a few years ago:
![Image]()
What's nice about the screws is that the reverse thread (that drills the bunghole) allows you to pull in or push out the material to line up 2 materials on one plane will the glue sets. Once set, you can finish screwing in.
Not sure if that helps or not, just throwing out what I know.
This is all azek from a job a few years ago:
Warren, not sure of the thickness of your sheet goods, but we've installed 3/8 PVC material that was beaded every 2 1/2" in 4x8 sheets on porch ceilings with polyurethane construction adhesive straight to the bottom of the joists. Nailed with 18 gauge brads every 10" or so.
In your case, with the sheets in those dimensions, poly adhesive and brads on 12" centers will suffice IMO. You won't get much movement in a panel that small and trapping it with crown is ideal with screwed perimeter.
In your case, with the sheets in those dimensions, poly adhesive and brads on 12" centers will suffice IMO. You won't get much movement in a panel that small and trapping it with crown is ideal with screwed perimeter.
Thanks Guys.
On the same job, we have another area that will have sheet azek ceiling pieces that are about 36"x96". These will miter together at 22 1/2 degrees and be covered by a small piece of trim. We are using 1/2" ply as a backer, will use the poly, but I think I am leaning towards using screws at least on this area.
On the coffers, I think I am going to pre miter all the crown for each section, glue, and screw them from behind, and then install it all as one unit. This should keep the miters tight forever, and reduce the amount of visible fasteners. Homeowner is going to wait to paint until at least next year.
On the same job, we have another area that will have sheet azek ceiling pieces that are about 36"x96". These will miter together at 22 1/2 degrees and be covered by a small piece of trim. We are using 1/2" ply as a backer, will use the poly, but I think I am leaning towards using screws at least on this area.
On the coffers, I think I am going to pre miter all the crown for each section, glue, and screw them from behind, and then install it all as one unit. This should keep the miters tight forever, and reduce the amount of visible fasteners. Homeowner is going to wait to paint until at least next year.
Cortex is the way to go, they virtually disappear when you stand a few feet back.
A couple of pointers:
-- don't screw them in at an angle, it makes the bung shape an oval
--- clean the material with acetone before setting the bungs, personally, my impactor shoots black stuff (from the brushes?) onto the PVC and if I don't clean the material before setting the bung, it leaves a nearly permanent black circle around the bung making it much more visible.
--- if you don't screw them in enough and the bung sits proud, don't shave it off, it removes the seal-- rather, use another screw and screw it into the bung then use the screw to pull out the old bung , then set the screw deeper and re-bung.
--- if you are going to try and line up two planes of azek, sink the screw a little deeper before backing it out to align the plane and avoid the issue above
--- a 1/4" drill bit makes the same size hole as the cortex screw
--- PVC glue makes an incredibly strong joint. No need to biscuit, pocket screw, etc... joints together, it will never be stronger than butt-joing & gluing it. (I was told this directly from the manufacturer years ago. I tested it by taking two pieces of scrap a foot long, forming a "T", butt joining with glue and clamping. The next day, I smashed the "T" against a rock as hard as I could several times and it broke in the field. The joint was stronger than the material itself)
A couple of pointers:
-- don't screw them in at an angle, it makes the bung shape an oval
--- clean the material with acetone before setting the bungs, personally, my impactor shoots black stuff (from the brushes?) onto the PVC and if I don't clean the material before setting the bung, it leaves a nearly permanent black circle around the bung making it much more visible.
--- if you don't screw them in enough and the bung sits proud, don't shave it off, it removes the seal-- rather, use another screw and screw it into the bung then use the screw to pull out the old bung , then set the screw deeper and re-bung.
--- if you are going to try and line up two planes of azek, sink the screw a little deeper before backing it out to align the plane and avoid the issue above
--- a 1/4" drill bit makes the same size hole as the cortex screw
--- PVC glue makes an incredibly strong joint. No need to biscuit, pocket screw, etc... joints together, it will never be stronger than butt-joing & gluing it. (I was told this directly from the manufacturer years ago. I tested it by taking two pieces of scrap a foot long, forming a "T", butt joining with glue and clamping. The next day, I smashed the "T" against a rock as hard as I could several times and it broke in the field. The joint was stronger than the material itself)
We were doing 28"x96" 3/4" thick azek panels on a soffit we just glued the panels then 16g the edges where trim covered. Then in the field shot 18g on 16" centers.
If you haven't used BSI cyanoacrylate glue on your azek you are missing one of the best parts of using azek. This is glue is amazing get the activator for even faster setting glue.
http://www.amazon.com/Bob-Smith-108...illing/dp/B0000DD1QQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1365208262&sr=8-1&keywords=bsi+glue
Cole
If you haven't used BSI cyanoacrylate glue on your azek you are missing one of the best parts of using azek. This is glue is amazing get the activator for even faster setting glue.
http://www.amazon.com/Bob-Smith-108...illing/dp/B0000DD1QQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1365208262&sr=8-1&keywords=bsi+glue
Cole
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