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Discussion Starter #1
hi, designing a somewhat large shed, maybe 10' wide X 16'.

I want plenty of air flow under so the floor never rots out. coppercoat wood preservative in addition to treated plywood floor.

, area is wet and in a low spot. Will build a berm around it but still is a wet area.

I might put it on doubled up cinderblocks although that worries me a bit about racking unless I fill them with concrete and maybe rebar but that sort of negates the cheap cost of cinder blocks VS just doing footings which I can flare out at the bottom and will act as hurricane anchors too.


Shed will hold a lot of weight, machines etc. I want a lot of beam support.

I also want hurricane anchors, although probably overkill for a shed this size but better safe than sorry.

If the shed is on cinder blocks, it might be able to frost heave, and that should be fine, if anything goes out of level later, it can be shimmed, but if I add anchors, those locations won't be able to frost heave. Can the rest of the deck heaving break/weaken the anchor connections?

Anchors I'm thinking make deep footings flare/bell bottoms with J bolt + eyelets to chain/wire wrapped around the beam, or premade metal corkscrew anchors chained around beam, or just sonotube footings up to the beam and through bolted.


I'm thinking three beams for the 10ft width, so that'd be a lot of footings if I do deep footings instead of just cheap cinderblocks. I don't want to make the beam too thick 2x10 or 2x12 in order to use less supports because already the deck will be elevated for air flow and don't want the ramp entrance too steep.

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Is there a span limit for cathedral framing without purlins?

The 2x6 or 2x8 ridge beam I don't want to put any joists under it because I don't want to kill headroom, so I can't put vertical purlin supports. I'll put collar ties on each rafter but higher up so they don't kill headroom.

rafters will be 2x4s and I'm just using 2x4 saddle ties rather than bird beaking them https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson...e-ZMAX-Galvanized-Hurricane-Tie-H1Z/100374935

I just don't like the idea of reducing an already small 2x4 rafter and those 95 cent brackets plus some blocking will handle all the snow/walking load it will need and am spacing 2x4 rafters close, maybe 14" OC.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I want a decent size soffit to keep rain off the t1-11.
2x4 rafters CUT to a bird beak just seams so weak to me even though I'm prolly gonna put rafters every 10".

If I use those hurricane clips instead of bird beaks, I'd use heavy screws into the top plate and 10D short nails into the rafters plus blocking at top plate to rafters. I highly doubt any amount of ice/snow or person walking on soffit could make that budge.


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I can run a 16ft ridge beam without perlins? I will put collar ties about a foot down from ridge beam at least.

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Thurricane anchors, likely overkill especially for a shed this size plus rafters and joists being spaced closer than normal, and especially if it's filled with anything, but down the road it could be almost empty. Just want to be safe even though it's not a hurricane zone near the beach, but we do get the rare hurricane and even a tornado.

Most sheds aren't on footings below the frost line, and if they heave/sink unevenly they can somewhat easily be shimmed with a jack but a hurricane footing could cause stress/crack on the beam if the rest of the shed is allowed to heave except in that area.
I know mother nature is not to be reckoned w/ and may seem ice heave is nothing but who knows especially since it's a wet area.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
is it the planet of:


a) perlins don't support a ridge beam, and you can do 16ft cathedral span without them, and collar ties don't really help either. this is what someone else suggested,

I think if it's 16ft ridge, the last 4ft will be a loft w joists and perlins anyway.

b) just bird beak the 2x4s. those hurricane anchors and some blocking would likely be as strong if not stronger but it's not code.

c) in-ground hurricane anchors to keep the whole shed down, while the rest of the shed is on grade and might frost heave, is a good question if the anchored areas could be stress damaged and IDK.

BTW I will hurricane strap sill to studs and rafters to plate.

remember I'm just trying to plan it at this stage.
 

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Premium Member
Honolulu, Hawaii
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17,450 Posts
is it the planet of:


a) perlins don't support a ridge beam, and you can do 16ft cathedral span without them, and collar ties don't really help either. this is what someone else suggested,

I think if it's 16ft ridge, the last 4ft will be a loft w joists and perlins anyway.

b) just bird beak the 2x4s. those hurricane anchors and some blocking would likely be as strong if not stronger but it's not code.

c) in-ground hurricane anchors to keep the whole shed down, while the rest of the shed is on grade and might frost heave, is a good question if the anchored areas could be stress damaged and IDK.

BTW I will hurricane strap sill to studs and rafters to plate.

remember I'm just trying to plan it at this stage.
We don't know where you're at. Here that shed would need plans that have all that info on them.:thumbsup:
 

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General Contractor
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Gotta love this place! :thumbup::laughing:
 

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Banned
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Discussion Starter #9
ok, inspector/ said must be bird beak, so that solves that, although I think those brackets might be as strong or stronger.

said perlins aren't required. but it's true they do nothing for a cathedral?

hurricane anchor also isn't required but I might want to add that later to not confuse inspector, and think that's an interesting topic about having the shed on blocks that maybe it'll frost heave but the anchor locations won't frost heave, what are your thoughts? thank you
 

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Premium Member
Honolulu, Hawaii
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Birds beak:blink:,,,:laughing::laughing: I don't think you talked to any inspector.
 

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Artist and not a curator
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10,590 Posts
is it the planet of:


a) perlins don't support a ridge beam, and you can do 16ft cathedral span without them, and collar ties don't really help either. this is what someone else suggested,

I think if it's 16ft ridge, the last 4ft will be a loft w joists and perlins anyway.

b) just bird beak the 2x4s. those hurricane anchors and some blocking would likely be as strong if not stronger but it's not code.

c) in-ground hurricane anchors to keep the whole shed down, while the rest of the shed is on grade and might frost heave, is a good question if the anchored areas could be stress damaged and IDK.

BTW I will hurricane strap sill to studs and rafters to plate.

remember I'm just trying to plan it at this stage.
This is impressive. Everything you want to do is wrong on nearly every level.

I'm hoping you're really young and just trying to figure things out.
 
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