Is it shear?:whistling

 

not talking about a specific wall.. i just see alot of framing going up where the rim joist is mounted flush with the sheathing

 

Around here (Ontario) it is RARE to see anyone sheet the rim. I sheet my walkouts through which is more then a lot of guys even.
We are honestly usually so tight on material that the extra 5 sheets it'd take for the house wouldn't be possible.

Correct me if I am wrong, but most of the west coast US guys need to do for sheer value.

 

...most of the west coast US guys need to do for sheer value.

Correct.:thumbsup:

Don't ever recall sheathing not covering the rim.

 

We cover the band joists with scraps from the windows around here. Too much trouble to hold it out the 1/2" with too man y of the new guys barely able to read tapes.

 

Hmm guess i'll have to have a chat with my engineer i dont see the northwest having much difference in shear specs than the south

 

We are required by code to run the wall sheathing over the rim. If we fail to do it, we have install uplift straps at 4' oc.

 

I do it for the same reason Warren does. Along the shore, if the plywood doesn't span across the box at least 1' each way, straps are required.

That was several years ago though. Straps may be required no matter what now. :furious:

 

I've worked in Cali my whole life and I've never seen an exposed rim board. It's for sheer and to tie floors together. 'Course, this is earthquake country.

 

we always sheath the ribbon here, the method varies based on wall height, if the walls are 8' we chew up the scraps and use them on the ribbon. for 9' and 10 ' walls we put 2 sheets on the wall then fill in the rest up to the bottom plate of the next floor walls to lock it together

i know a few local framers that dont sheat the outside face of the end stud on exterior walls, the plates get cut to the exact lenght of the wall so they dont have to put a 5 3/4" strip on each end

 

We start at the sill and sheath up form there horizontally with cdx.

 

Joe, I thought you had a special crew come in and install the sheathing..

 

I've done both and never had an engineer or city inspector bat an eye or even ask about it. I've been experimenting lately.... normally I would sheathe the 1st floor walls in the air (slab on grade) before starting the second floor deck.

On my last build we built the second floor deck sheathed the floor and then ran the exterior wall sheathing over the rim joist with a 1' filler in the middle of the wall.

I found the latter to be a little more efficient as the helper was able to "walk through walls" with joists and whatnot. Our shear value also increased, as the sheathing connected the 1st floor walls with the second floor deck.

 

It says on our I joist package that it HAS to be everlapped, Although I am the only framer that I have EVER seen do it.

Just don't nail or staple the overlapped 12" until the wall is straight:whistling

 

why do you wait until the wall is strait?

 

I don't do much framing anymore but when I did I always ran the sheathing down to within a 1/4" of the sill plate.

On 2 storeys I always ran the sheathing to bridge the rim and tie into the first floor walls.

it only takes a little extra effort and to my way of thinking it helps stiffen everything.

I have seen it the other way more often than not. I also see the end studs when walls are tied together. That is another pet peeve of mine!

Chad

 

We hold the rim in an inch and a half, then rigid foam and sheet across the rim making sure that the sheathing ties into the second story sill plate.

 

I'm not a framer but I'm sure I've seen it done both ways plenty here.

 

Because if you don't it could make it harder to get the wall straight.

If you stand back and look at it logically, the only thing that makes sense is you overlap the rim with your sheeting

 

I break sheathing either on the rim or on the bottom plate. I also leave a 1/4" gap between the sheets when there's rim. This allows the walls to settle solid when the plates shrink up. I don't agree at all that sheathing across the rim is better. There's at least three plates there that are going to shrink and if the rim is not engineered that shrinks substantially to, then your studs are held up by the nails in the ply and the drywall rather than settling with the plates.

Wheres the difference in breaking on the bottom plate or breaking on a block line as far as shear strength? I don't see the difference. I have seen guys sheet even with the plates, this is a big no no as there is no shear transfer at all.

 

Wheres the difference in breaking on the bottom plate or breaking on a block line as far as shear strength? I don't see the difference. I have seen guys sheet even with the plates, this is a big no no as there is no shear transfer at all.

What do you mean "on a block line"?


I see basically everyone around here runs the sheathing flush with the bottom plate.

So when looking from the road, you can see the floor sheathing because there is no overlap

 

Yes definitely bridge the sheathing over the rim, it ties in the two floors together.

 

Heres a picture with shear blocking both for shear (the flat ones on the far wall) and fire blocking

Heres blocking with sheets horizontal