Shouldn't really matter either way. As long as every sheet of ply has solid blocking on all edges you should be fine. Personally we put blocks in all the way across every 4' and install our ply horizontally. This way your staggers are on studs and your blocking is continuous.

 

Why not order 4x10/4x12 sheet goods?

 

Why not order 4x10/4x12 sheet goods?

$$$$ that's why. Just block and sheet.

 

Labor is usually more then materials...especially with employees

 

I alleys put the rips at the bottom, it's easier to block down low where I can reach rather than at 8' were I would need a ladder.

 

The correct way is stagger the blocking so you stagger the plywood, as on a roof.

I doubt it makes any difference though, it's probably over engineered anyway.

 

Most the time I use 9 or 10 foot sheets on tall walls. But whenever we have sheets not tall enough, a straight block line is used. I've never seen anyone stagger a block line like you explained, that doesn't make any sense to me. And if the wall is sheeted after it's standing, usually on garage walls. I like to block the lower side of the wall and put my rips on the bottom, then full sheets on top. This saves having to work from a ladder.

 

Ok, so I'm not the only one who thinks the staggered shear blocking makes no sense. I like the rips at the bottom idea, one of those how come I never thought of that before :wallbash: , looks like less ladder time for me now.

Here in Utah they let us flat block as it's only backing for perimeter nailing. Does that fly where y'all are?

No flat blocking allowed around here. Has to be full with 3x or 4x for full nailing and resistance to shear forces. All this is overkill in my mind but its whatever the architect specs.

If you want to get technical, your supposed to attach to full 2x material not sharing. So a vertical stud or horizontal block would need to be doubled.

They're starting to realize that aspect too and it is becoming more and more common to see 3x studs spec'd 4' oc to catch the edges of the sheets and provide solid nailing. Somewhere along the line somebody realized that when you have a single 2x stud catching 2 panels nailed 2"oc that it basically blasts the lumber to ****.

 

We normally used whatever made sense, which meant a lot of 9 and 10' sheets.

But we've been using Zip Wall so we order all 8' sheets to get the best uinit pricing we can, then we block. To be honest, it doesn't take long to block walls with cutoffs cut in place.

 

Here in Utah they let us flat block as it's only backing for perimeter nailing. Does that fly where y'all are?

 

Yes and no. Most the framing I've ever done, that was never a problem having the nails shine all the way through your flat backing. I've even been yelled at for putting my blocks in the other way, as you would with fire blocks. It makes more work for the insulators, plumbers, and electricians. But the last serious framing job I was on, flat backing was frowned upon. I'm not sure if it was just the superintendents or the building inspectors calling us on that.

I would try and avoid flat 2x's for plywood backing, you can do some thinking ahead on your layout and double it up if you have to. But you have to put yourself in the customers shoes. If you saw a row of nails shining through a board, in the back of your head you would think "hack work". There were a few times when I've had to double up a channel that had just one stud in flat with a row of plywood nails shining through the whole thing. It's not easy to pound that in either when the nails are already sticking through.

I've also noticed that superintendents building apartments or condo's are usually more concerned with proficiency working with other trades, and are less concerned with clean framing. A condo superintendant will probably expect you to put your sheer blocks in flat, so other trades can work around it easier. A superintendant building houses, will want them in the other way so you don't see nails sticking through, that way just looks cleaner. And telling him "it get's covered with sheetrock" doesn't fly with him either. Those are generalizations, you never know what a superintendant or owner might expect, you have to get to know them.

 

If you want to get technical, your supposed to attach to full 2x material not sharing. So a vertical stud or horizontal block would need to be doubled.

 

Where is this in the building code? The last time I checked it specified two sheets splice over one edge of 2x on 4" edge nailing and up. On 3:12 or 2:12 nailing, 3x material is required. That's what all the inspectors I've seen go by as well.

Ok, so I'm not the only one who thinks the staggered shear blocking makes no sense. I like the rips at the bottom idea, one of those how come I never thought of that before :wallbash: , looks like less ladder time for me now.

Yeah, I used to laugh when I saw people sheeting a garage and carrying their rips up a step ladder. Usually it makes sense to start with full sheets from the bottom up, but you have to think outside the box sometimes.

 

We use staples on all our sheathing here so we dont have to worry about shiners. In fact I make the laborer hold the block while I staple it in, havnt shot his fingers yet

 

We have always run our ply horizontally as well, with blocking at 4'. 3x studs @ 4' are becoming the norm as well

 

Requirements for shear blocking have changed so much over the years your best bet is to read the blueprint on the details. The shear schedule usually calls out edge nailing requirements. Pretty much anything that will swiss cheese a 2x on edge at seams should be avoided.

I have had to go back and double up flat blocking to appease the inspector.