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After almost three months of waiting, my new trailer finally showed up. I'm starting to work on setting it up, and the flaws in my design are starting to appear.

First off, the basics. I ordered a 8.5'x24' car hauler. I had them push the man door back against the wheel well on the right side, and I added double 4' doors on the left side.





I wanted the double doors because I was planning on being able to load pallets in through the side, where I could then jockey them around with a pallet jack. And here is where I ran into my first problem. I tried it for the first time the other day, and when I went to raise the pallet jack, a wheel punched through the floor.



When I ordered the trailer, I specified 12" on center framing, and they said the 3/4" ply would be plenty strong enough... wrong. The manufacturer says it shouldn't have happened, and is repairing it under warranty, but I'm not trusting it. So I'm trying to come up with an ideas to keep this from occurring in the future. I am considering adding 1/4" aluminum diamond plate, which would run $1200+, and worse than that, deduct a few hundred pounds from the payload capacity. Does anybody else have any better ideas?

On another note, I have everything to add Ford's trailer camera, and am getting ready to tackle it, has anybody else installed one, and do they have any pointers?
 

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Can I get an Amen?
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Raise the ball up on the truck or get an adjustable neck for trailer.

Not moving pallet jack over diamond plate very easily. Add 11 gauge steel.

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I'm going to give him the benefit of the doubt and say he's only using that receiver/ball combo to get the trailer home.

But as for the diamond plate, 100% concur. :thumbsup:
Rolling anything on that would be a MAJOR headache

I'd go with the steel if pallets and jacks are a common business practice.
 

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Make a spot for sheet goods on the passenger side. Most of the time the trailer is leaning to that side from the roads. So when you unstrap them they will stay in place.
 

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Nice looking trailer.
Maybe have them add some extra cross braces underneath to help stiffen the floor or for a cheap way out if you are only keeping the pallets in one specific area, double up the plywood.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Raise the ball up on the truck or get an adjustable neck for trailer.

Not moving pallet jack over diamond plate very easily. Add 11 gauge steel.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

It's an adjustable hitch, I just had it low because I didn't tall enough blocks when I hooked it up. I really need to find a taller tongue jack for it.

I thought about steel, but this is Oregon, and wet shoes on steel seems a little iffy, plus the steel is significantly heavier. It is a lot cheaper though.
 

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To save on weight, just put a "track" of steel where the pallet jack will roll instead of the whole floor.
Just my .02¢
 

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Discussion Starter #15
What’s the GVWR of your trailer?
It's a 12,000# trailer.


I ordered some 10g steel to sheet the floor. There are now four 8'x12' sheets stacked in the middle of the trailer floor, just waiting for me to cut it up and install it. The steel ended up a little heavier than I planned, but I think the added strength will be worth it. Since this means 800+ lbs off the payload, I think I need to figure out a way to install removable racking and cabinets so they can be pulled when I need the full payload for cargo. Since I am doing this all myself, and already work 50-60 hours a week, plus am constantly out of town on the weekends, this might end up being the world's slowest trailer build. :laughing:

I think the latest plan is to run e-track down both sides of the length of the trailer, then cut the steel sheet into it, and then spray the steel with Line-X. Anybody see any issues with this idea?
 
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