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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What is your process when installing exterior doors to seal under the threshold?

It seems like half the time the opening is tight and whatever bead of caulk you put under there ends up getting wiped away and making a mess. Any trick?
 

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What is your process when installing exterior doors to seal under the threshold?

It seems like half the time the opening is tight and whatever bead of caulk you put under there ends up getting wiped away and making a mess. Any trick?
I'm curious if the europeans use their rubber gasket technology there also. We may see that used for windows instead of foam in the future for its flexibility and long life.
 

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You don't want the opening too tight. If the header deflects, you will have a problem. I do a proper door pan using a good heavy tape and then follow that with a couple beads of good quality silicone. Dry fitting the door and then tipping the top out while someone else caulks under will help with the caulk mess. Having a second guy is definitely a plus.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm even looking at just regular door installs over concrete openings, say for a garage.

I also have a french door that I need to install that goes out onto a deck that gets directly hit with weather. It makes me really nervous. I feel like I have to build it up higher than the deck but that doesn't work well with the threshold then being higher than the decking.???
 

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You don't want the opening too tight. If the header deflects, you will have a problem. I do a proper door pan using a good heavy tape and then follow that with a couple beads of good quality silicone. Dry fitting the door and then tipping the top out while someone else caulks under will help with the caulk mess. Having a second guy is definitely a plus.
Same here. Clean the subfloor well and check for humps. If it is cooler out use the primer/adhesive for the tape. Use a good quality silicone or urethane sealant.

In our new homes we frame the opening a little taller so we can put a 3/4" strip under the door. This allows for flooring and a rug without the door dragging on the rug. I use advantech for the strip and shim that perfect first that way the door is easier to set.
 

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I'm even looking at just regular door installs over concrete openings, say for a garage.

I also have a french door that I need to install that goes out onto a deck that gets directly hit with weather. It makes me really nervous. I feel like I have to build it up higher than the deck but that doesn't work well with the threshold then being higher than the decking.???
What brand door? Just curious. I always want my decking or patio down from the bottom of the door a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
What brand door? Just curious. I always want my decking or patio down from the bottom of the door a bit.
How much of a gap do you leave between the bottom of threshold and decking?

In this case I will have a gap because I am removing old treated decking that is 1-1/2" thick and replacing with composite.

My yard gets doors from Francis Schulze. I have two french doors to install in the near future. Both are Masonite HD Steel.
 

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How much of a gap do you leave between the bottom of threshold and decking?

In this case I will have a gap because I am removing old treated decking that is 1-1/2" thick and replacing with composite.

My yard gets doors from Francis Schulze. I have two french doors to install in the near future. Both are Masonite HD Steel.
I would look into the sloped and back damming methods and sill flashing if your really worried about water intrusion. I like the back dam method and usually do it by taping over a strip of wood (1/8" or so ) thick.
 

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How much of a gap do you leave between the bottom of threshold and decking?

In this case I will have a gap because I am removing old treated decking that is 1-1/2" thick and replacing with composite.

My yard gets doors from Francis Schulze. I have two french doors to install in the near future. Both are Masonite HD Steel.
Usually 3/4" +/-
 

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I'll shim my pans 1/8" if possible, roll the edges and back dam. Then I tape the chit out of everything.
 

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On doors with built in metal sills and hollow channels I dont like trying to predict where the ridges land for silicone, I will often silicone the outside but I slide the door up in the opening enough to squirt some low expansive spray foam then lower the door onto it wet.

I find it fills the hollow points, waterproofs and takes out the spongyness in the sill.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
This is exactly what we use as well. We've been using the Threstite product for a couple of years now and love it.

You can make a pan system with it just like Superseal showed above.
Just bought some. I've got a few doors to put in I'll give it a shot on. Thanks for the tips. This along with good pan technique should make for a bullet proof system. :thumbup:
 

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Looks good siding pro.

When I first started I did aluminum all of the time, then after going back to do other work I would see it dented or something and stopped doing it. Same with garage door jambs, they always got beat up. Sometime the wood thats there is fine with a touch up coat.
 

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I have made aluminum pans before. Problem with them in cold climates is thermal transfer and they will frost on the inside.
 

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I had to do one of our door leading to the deck. Used .032 aluminum. with 'WR Grace' ice and water shield underneath.
You could see about 3/8" of the pan from the inside when the door is shut.
Don't have a problem with ice or thermal transfer. We also have a storm door.
 

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Louisville siding pro has a real nice pan there. Love good aluminum work. If any of that nose sticks out I'd have to have orange cones, flashing led lights, and signs stating not to kick, dent, step on, or roll a hand truck/appliance dolly over or there's gonna be trouble!!!!:thumbsup:
 
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