Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
236 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
To make a long story short I was contacted by an organization that owns a house and is ready to cut their losses on a house they own. The problem is that there is a major water leak and every time it rains or the lawn sprinklers run so does the water into the house. This house is a split level home, they started with a slab foundation, on the south and east sides there is a retaining wall poured on the outer edge of the slab to hold the dirt off of the wood framed walls. At this point I am guessing the water is entering between the seam of the retaining wall and slab. Either there is existing tar that has cracked, no tar, or the wall has had a structural failure and has a major break in it. The only way to find out is to excavate it. Upon excavation and discovering what the exact problem is will determine what needs to be done for repairs. IF there is no structural damage my plan will be to pressure wash the wall till clean, allow it to dry for several days, put one coat of hot tar on the slab/retaining wall joint area, let that dry then come back in and apply a butyl tape over the applied tar and finally apply one coat of tar over the entire wall. Any one got a better suggestion on application or materials?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,732 Posts
I've thought about using I/W membrane on a similar upcoming job (an old cellar)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
236 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Can any one recommend a peel and stick membrane for this type of project. I think a membrane over the entire wall area would give a greater piece of mind to me and the customer.
 

·
Contractor
Joined
·
7,427 Posts
Mel-roll is one I have used. Also use tamko tw-60 with good results.

I've not seen blueskin here locally.

Whatever you have locally available should be fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
236 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
These are pictures of the wall that is leaking. There is the slab on grade then 8" block to take up space where the dirt would cover them, in some instances there is also some brick laid in and then the stone. This wall has no load from the structure of the house, just for looks. The block and brick do have a very thin coat of tar on them, the joint between the slab and block appears to have some roof cement and then tar. But obviously not a sufficient amount. Sealing the brick and block is not the concern I have, is there any way to seal the mortar and stone, that would still be eye appealing and have longevity? The next alternative would be to remove the stone and finish laying in block or some how pour cement to seal the wall up? I would appreciate any suggestions.
 

Attachments

·
I'm a Mac
Joined
·
5,487 Posts
Ya...that doesn't work...which you already know now.

I'd suggest sandblasting the tar off the block, remove it somehow anyways, parge it properly and then a proper waterproofing product, drain board and then free draining backfill materials.

But until you get that tar off you can't do anything properly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
236 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Came to the conclusion after talking with several different concrete specialty companies that tar or membrane is about the only option for below grade water proofing. At this point I am going to apply a new coat of tar over the existing tar, put butyl tape over the joint where the block and slab meet. Then another coat of tar. On the stone and mortar I will use a spray on clear waterproofing agent. It may discolor the stone but at this point the customer has no care about that. The clear sealer has a life span of approximately 15-20 yrs
 

·
I'm a Mac
Joined
·
5,487 Posts
You need to find something locally available to you that is waterproofing. I use a product called Aquaseal. A below grade peel and stick can work as well. Add protection board.

Un Parged CMU block is very porous, it needs to be sealed first, parging is the easiest way to seal it. Unfortunately it has been tarred right now so parging will not adhere to it, it needs to be removed. You can try waterproofing overtop right now, however since you have a leak, if it doesn't work your back to square one.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top