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Discussion Starter #1
The drywall on the walls and ceilings throughout the house has been releasing, or popping, away from the screw fasteners, creating dimples and loose panels.

The drywall had been installed, finished, and primed for 3 to 4 months prior to the application of the first color coat of paint. The popped screws began occurring immediately after the paint was applied and have continued to appear almost daily. The popping has subsided now but will likely happen again if the walls are pressed upon.

A test for strength was performed on a sample of the affected drywall. A screw head was pulled through at 88 pounds, normal is a minimum of 80 pounds.

The ceilings were framed with TJI, walls with kiln dried lumber, bowing is no worse than usual. Pops are on interior walls, exterior walls, and ceilings, in the field, not seams or angles.

What will cause screws to pop after being tight for 4 months?
 

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The pressure of the roller is probably what caused the pops. Screw pops won't show through seams because they have tape covering them. The screws could have been sunk in to deep, and the pressure of the roller was the last straw
 

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Are you 100% they were not "popped" prior to painting? If the screws were set too deep then mudded over and sanded they may have looked fine but as soon as the paint is on the wall the popped screws will be noticed a lot easier which brings out the microscope for further inspection.


Is it possible the house may have settled?

Foundation drainage performed properly?

Also sometimes high humidity will soak into the drywall (which will absorb the moisture like a sponge) -The drywall is taped and sanded then the drywall eventually dtys out and shrinks causing the screwheads to show through.

Good luck and let us know if you figure out the source of the problem.
 

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The drywall on the walls and ceilings throughout the house has been releasing, or popping, away from the screw fasteners, creating dimples and loose panels.

The drywall had been installed, finished, and primed for 3 to 4 months prior to the application of the first color coat of paint. The popped screws began occurring immediately after the paint was applied and have continued to appear almost daily. The popping has subsided now but will likely happen again if the walls are pressed upon.

A test for strength was performed on a sample of the affected drywall. A screw head was pulled through at 88 pounds, normal is a minimum of 80 pounds.

The ceilings were framed with TJI, walls with kiln dried lumber, bowing is no worse than usual. Pops are on interior walls, exterior walls, and ceilings, in the field, not seams or angles.

What will cause screws to pop after being tight for 4 months?
HO's :laughing:
 

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What is above the ceiling? Screws can pop in TJI's if there is alot of deflection, ie the builders undersized the joist/over spanned them. I was working on a 12 million dollar house in which they didnt follow the prints and there was alot of bounce in the floor.
 

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Maybe the screws were tight to the board, but the board was not pushed firmly against the studs?
 

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Usually screw/nail pops are caused by shrinkage of the framing lumber. Avoid using to long of a fastener, fastening into the center region of framing members (this is where the majority of shrinkage occurs), float the drywall over structural members such as headers, float angled joints, and use resilient channel systems when possible. There is no methods for completely eliminating all pops. Some pops over time are to be expected.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks to all who have taken the time to reply. In response to your suggestions:

The board was tight. The finishers are top-notch and certainly would have recognized loose board in the process of finishing. The problem was not confined to any particular area that would have indicated causes such as settling or lumber shrinkage; lumber and TJI's were popping, interior walls, exterior walls, and ceilings were all popping.


PVC Trim Guy and dhdrywall49, I tend to agree with you. One of the hangers must have set his screws to a depth that held the board tight, but just deep enough to have stressed the face paper. Then when the paint was applied the added moisture was enough to let it rip around the screw heads.

I was really hoping to get an explanation that reasonably pointed the finger at anyone other than my guys. Thanks for trying anyway.
 

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Please complete your profile, and continue to the intro page and tell us a little about yourself and your professional experience, thankyou and welcome to ct" gmod
 

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Pressing the board and checking with straight edge.

Screw pops are the biggest pain.

I always make a run around our jobs myself and press and shove the board hoping to find movement so we can catch it then. If a screw looks dodgey we add one top and bottom to be safe.

I like to do this test again after first pass of mud.

It takes so little time and saves on call backs.

A screw here and there is going to happen. Multiple screws everywhere and people are going to be freaking out.

Sorry to hear that - Send the boarder in on a weekend to help you with your call back. Make him tape the screws on Sunday. After a weekend on the tools he will think twice about blinding installing screws again.

My guys fix their mistakes - I help. But if the mistakes can be fixed durning office hours their time is not affected, just yours.
 
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