Drywall shouldn't overlap the tab. Stop right above it on top and next to it on the sides. My drywallers use durabond or 90 minute ez sand to fill in the gap.

 

Don't follow you. Drywall has to overlap the nailer tab (flange; edited later)...

Fill in what gap? you referring to the height difference between the nailer tab and the stud?

 

Have always been weary of driving nails or screws around the tub tab.
Even when pre-drilling. Having seen occasions where it split.

Is pre-drilling fine thread screws the best we can do?

On the elevated areas, it's easier to avoid the tab altogether by bumping the screw off the molding and onto the stud. Sides have to be done though and you're not always given 1/2 stud width...

Did you mean "leery"?

No fastener within 2" of tub flange. Therefore, no issue.

 

- If no fastener within 2" then how do you attach drywall at the sides?

Mine's not getting tiled. Painted green/purpleboard.

Correction (sorry) this is the shower flange (wall kit) . All the way around including the base tub unit.

BTW: I guess I did mean a little bit of leery and weary both!

 

What's a tub tab? The flange? I wouldn't fill the gap with anything that wicks water. (I don't use drywall, either).

Or are you talking about the top and sides of a surround?

(Nail to stud...then drywall screws outside the "tab", not through it)

 

I run it over the lip and fill with caulk.

 

Believe shower bead could be of help, which I have not seen before http://www.trim-tex.com/products/overview/commercial-beads/tear-away-beads/shower-bead

 

That looks like it might work pretty good, might give it a try on my own bathroom remodel.

 

Nobody glues a strip and corner bead on? I'll either do that, or do the whole strip as a fill, depending.

If I need a nailer to screw to, I'll put one in.

 

Doh! I've glued 'em.

 

I'm in the "but to the flange and durabond in the gap" club.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Tub tab, LOL. I haven't torn one out where drywall was screwed through the flange, it's always been over the flange and caulked. If the walls are open you simply add a stud if one isn't close enough.

I have never installed a shower enclosure, pretty sure that's a 70's thing or rebath.

 

you will split that surround kit if you're using a bugle head (sheetrock) screw. Use a self-drilling lathe/truss head screw.

I use to also hollow out the back of the sheetrock that sat over those screws to get it to lay flat. You can use sheetrock screws for the sheetrock over tub surround flange connection b/c the head is sinking into the sheetrock.

 

I shim around tub flange so It sits flat and hold screws back from the flange, like others have said use the trim tex shower bead it gives it a clean look

 

That bead is a waste of time. IMHO But hey, give it a try if you want.

Do as Big Johnson #9 pic and fill with quickset,tape and finish.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

I have a guy for that, I hate drywall. I was merely pointing out that it looked like a product geared to the diyer. I agree with you agreeing with Big J #9:thumbup:

 

I've always just butted up to the flange, especially if it's just a tub without the walls but if it has the walls, then notching the back side of the drywall and sliding over the flange is okay but but you don't have to screw through that flange. Just drywall screw normally to the stud within a couple inches. The tub flange should be screwed to the studs independent of the drywall anyway. I usually use solid brass or stainless screws around the flange countersunk a little to stay flush. It's not hard, just have to be careful.
At any rate, I have always liked to do a little 2x2 tile trim around the outside just to finish it off nice. It's pretty inexpensive and easy to do.