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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm a bit perplexed. Maybe you guys have run into this problem.

New Home has Entry Door with Double Sidelights. Customer wants a Screen Door on there. Problem is that the Framing is 2x6, but the center frame for the entry door is recessed.

Other than padding this out with additional trim and attaching the screen door to that, have any of you seen a better way to do it? I personally think it will be funny to have the center framed out while the sidelights are recessed back. I really don't like front screen doors on these types of doors.
 

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Have you checked with the door manufacturer to see if they have a screen for that model?
 

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Capra Aegagrus
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Other than padding this out with additional trim and attaching the screen door to that, have any of you seen a better way to do it?
Nope; that's what I've always done. It really doesn't look all that bad if you must have a storm door there. At that point, you've already obscured the main door, so the originally designed look is gone anyway.

Never had a client criticize doing it that way, either, and I've done a pile of 'em.
 

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Nope; that's what I've always done. It really doesn't look all that bad if you must have a storm door there. At that point, you've already obscured the main door, so the originally designed look is gone anyway.

Never had a client criticize doing it that way, either, and I've done a pile of 'em.
I agree Tin. That door is very similar to the door on my home which I recently installed a storm door on. Looks fine actually.
 

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my personal opinion is that a storm door is not meant to be put on that. if for no other reason than the fact that is doesn't serve the purpose. sidelites and most of the frame are still exposed to the weather.

but yeah, false jambs seem like the only option here
 

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DougChips is the MASTER at giving tutorials on installing those. But we either fur them out, or if its a Thermatru you can order the door with a neat adaptor that pops on to the door frame to take a storm door
 

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LNG,

Generally you could just build the middle mulls out to meet the exterior trim which is around 2.25". On a 6 9/16 jamb that is risky since it ends up being a bunch of wood that can move around over time causing the storm door to rub on it's frame.

I would suggest padding the mulls out 2.25" (one layer of 5/4 stock cut @ 2" and the top layer cut @ 1.25" to create reveals and providing your 36" width for the storm door frame). Since you will not be able to use your top z-bar you will need to source a piece of "L shaped weather stripping and screw it to the top of the jamb.

Somewhere on this site there is a thread where I posted some pictures and maybe a description on how to do this, if you can't find it let me know and I'll post some pictures again.
 

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....... Since you will not be able to use your top z-bar you will need to source a piece of "L shaped weather stripping and screw it to the top of the jamb. ...........
I have had good luck using
a pattern bit and router to
"customize" away offending parts
of the extrusions. :thumbup::laughing:
 

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. Since you will not be able to use your top z-bar you will need to source a piece of "L shaped weather stripping and screw it .
HUH? we furr out the mulls 1" Which brings them flush with the lower face of the Brickmold. The top Z bar attaches to the brickmold just like on any other door
 

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I have had good luck using
a pattern bit and router to
"customize" away offending parts
of the extrusions. :thumbup::laughing:
I've done the same with a table saw......sometimes it turns out really nice and sometimes it's really bad.:whistling
 

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HUH? we furr out the mulls 1" Which brings them flush with the lower face of the Brickmold. The top Z bar attaches to the brickmold just like on any other door
Patrick, assuming 4 9/16th' jamb we have to build them out 2.25" to have them even with the brickmold. I'm moving out your way if you only have to go 1"........less wood, less paint and less screws!
 

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Capra Aegagrus
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I just rip some 2x material to whatever it takes to come out flush. That makes the top Z just as usable as the rest of the assembly.

??
 

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Doug
why cant the top z be used?
For 2.25' build outs the top z-bar can be used. For the 6 9/16th jambs you would have to build out the mulls too far in my opinion in order to use the top z-bar unless you modify it. IMO, a L-shaped weatherstrip (the same thing that is used on expander style storm doors) looks good and since the door is set back there is very little risk of rain water coming in over the top.
 

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I just rip some 2x material to whatever it takes to come out flush. That makes the top Z just as usable as the rest of the assembly.

??
Out of interest, how are you securing a piece of stock that's 1.5" x 4.25" so it does not warp over a 1/16th of an inch?
 

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For 2.25' build outs the top z-bar can be used. For the 6 9/16th jambs you would have to build out the mulls too far in my opinion in order to use the top z-bar unless you modify it. IMO, a L-shaped weatherstrip (the same thing that is used on expander style storm doors) looks good and since the door is set back there is very little risk of rain water coming in over the top.
Doug what you smokin? You use them wierdo doors don't you? On a 6 an 9 door the mulls are 6 an 9 so again you are just adding 1 at least on a thermatru and a stanley.

DONT MAKE me take a picture for you tommorow
 
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