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Who or what is OP?
OP is you sir and let me justify my response about your ego.


Nothing good can come out of leaving eveerything way it is.

you get 10 shots at it way you did it. 1 time out of 10 it will miraculously hold. 4 times out of 10 whole thing will come down eventually whether partially or all together and that will be last time you hear from your buddy. 5 times out of 10 it will come down partially or all together and you will have lawsuit on your hands from guy who forgot he was your buddy.

As many more besides myself mentioned above. Keep your fingers crossed.
 
I don't know why lemonbomber's scratchcoat didnt take but there is nothing wrong with thin stone on cement board. I have posted this here before but here it is again: This job is about six years old and is sawn thin veneer over cement board, outside, in a freeze/thaw climate, and everything is still fine. I used a type s with a bonding agent, wet the cement board, scatched coated wet just ahead of laying the stone.
 

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I don't know why lemonbomber's scratchcoat didnt take but there is nothing wrong with thin stone on cement board. I have posted this here before but here it is again: This job is about six years old and is sawn thin veneer over cement board, outside, in a freeze/thaw climate, and everything is still fine. I used a type s with a bonding agent, wet the cement board, scatched coated wet just ahead of laying the stone.
I think you mentioned at least 2 steps that OP missed :rolleyes:
 
Discussion starter · #70 · (Edited)
I actually did it this way on purpose. Reason for it was that I thought to have straight lines for more than one course would create instability. Plus I liked the look of a more rustic wall. If I had wanted everything perfectly straight and uniform I would have gone with brick or cut stones.
Still deciding whether to do something with any of the spaces between rocks. Such as grouting mortar in there or small stones or just leave it as is. His wife is deciding.
Any suggestions?
 

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Lemonbomber, I don't usually critique other stonework. I always say that faux stone should replicate the real thing, and people usually don't care.. With your permission I would like to share a copy of your photo with some marking I put on it.. thanks:

Image


And IMO(In my opinion) I think the spaces as joints are fine there's nothing to do about it now- it's got the dry look. That's all I got..
 
I dont like the color of stuff either...its likes been weathered somewhere in box for a century.
I doubt the installer had much effect or influence on the colour. It is what it is, rustic. Not my favorite but i didn't pay for it. So long as the homeowner is happy and the stones stay on the wall, who cares.

As an aside. I was walking the dog yesterday and on an old stone warehouse in the neighbourhood (now a museum) there are stack joints 16" high that have 3 or 4 stones on either side. Rustic
 
The left side has some issues ?
IMHO which ain't so humble, I really can not distinguish the left from the right. Its all pretty rough, but I question if that stone is designed to be a dry stack.

Looks to me like it is irregular and should have been laid with a pretty big joint to help set them level. The stone is rectangular in shape so it should have followed basic masonry rules, like one on top of two... that sort of thing.

I think the only stone that really is hard to keep level and plumb is river stone split face. It's round and pointy and ya kinda got to throw it against the wall and hope it sticks. :eek:

The pic with the marks all over it like my third grade grammer teacher shows some of the basic errors.

Not worth tearing out mind you, but if you really want to test it, grab a hammer and a crow bar and attack the biggest stone on there. If it pops off after one or two hits, you better keep chiseling. On the other hand if it takes an aggressive beating to get one loose, then it will be fine as is.:thumbsup:
 
I don't know why lemonbomber's scratchcoat didnt take but there is nothing wrong with thin stone on cement board. I have posted this here before but here it is again: This job is about six years old and is sawn thin veneer over cement board, outside, in a freeze/thaw climate, and everything is still fine. I used a type s with a bonding agent, wet the cement board, scatched coated wet just ahead of laying the stone.
Hi Stone, will this work fine for cultured stone? Which type s and bonding agent did you use? I like the work you did, btw.

Also is this the order you did this in?
1) wet cement board then applied scratch coat
2) applied stone with what motar? with the type s and bonding agent?

When I was reading your post I thought you appled the scratch coat wet and just laid the stone on that but that can't be right.

I know this thread is old but hope you and others that contributed here are still active. I hope to hear from you and thanks in advance.


To OP, stones still in place?

To others, I might go with tile thinset for cultured stone for an exterior put if that is way more expensive than what member stone has done then I might just go with stone's method.

If you ask why cultured stone because its cheaper for me. lol @ 2 dollars a sq. ft.
 
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