Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum banner
1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
168 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I ran a few searches before posting this without really finding what I think I was looking for, so here goes-

Does anyone know some great places or what good prices are now for Recip Blades? I saw the dollar a blade threads from a while back but when you need em an ebay being fewer and farther between on finds, it seems I need to look elsewhere for reputable blades. We seem to be blasting through blades faster and faster so I'm trying to find good deals on the name brands. I don't have any loyalty to blade brands, I just use what seems to be available at the time. Have used a large amount of the newer milwaukee blades and some lenox. Also just bought a couple packs of Bosch when I dropped a saw off for repairs. A guy at the repair center said he could work something out with me for bulk buys, just let him know the brand/type of blade I want. I prices out the Bosch blades for heavy use and they came up to about 2.50 a blade- 100 bulk pack for around 250 when the average price in the 5 packs is more like 3-3.50 a blade.

Anyone know an average of prices they pay and brands they prefer or if 2.50 a piece sounds good on the heavy use (not the Daredevil) Bosch's? I'm usually after demo blades for old drywall/plaster as well as metal blades for all kinds of metal. Local orange and blue box stores even on their varied packs still average out to over $3 a blade.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,517 Posts
When it comes to sawzall blades I like a deal as much as the next guy but don't worry to much about it.If you blow thru cheap blades and your paying a guy to go get another blade and change it ,and they are only lasting half as long,they are costing you more.I charge these to the jobs as I would nails or caulk.The customer pays .
I have had good luck with Lennox.
 

·
I'm a Mac
Joined
·
5,487 Posts
Sawsall blades and hole saws...there's only 3-4 companies who make em and just stick whoever a name on them today as that's who's placed the order.

Buy cheap, they all burn out the same and like most employees do, once the paint wears off they think it's garbage and grab another one
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
534 Posts
Are your guys wearing out the blades or breaking them. If you are breaking a lot of blades, it might be your sawzall as much as the blades. Everyone seems to want a big amperage tool with a one inch stroke. These break more blades than I can count. I have both a one and a quarter inch stroke and a 3/4 inch stroke sawzall. I only use the big one for honking through beams or something that you cant hit something with the end of the blade. For finessing accurate cuts or anywhere that it will bind, use the smaller stroke and you will make your blades last lots longer. I have had good luck with the extreme blades from home depot or milwalkee blades are good but expensive. If you don't own a 3/4 inch stroke sawzall, go buy one and you will find your blades will last far longer. I can cut hundreds of nails with the smaller tool, or break the blade after ten cuts or less with the super sawzall.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,711 Posts
I disagree with the longer stroke causing more blade breakage. I have several of the Makita 15 amp with a 1 1/4" stroke. We have used these exclusively for about 5 years. We probably break a blade about once a month. We wear out about 10 per month. I have tried just about every brand of blade. Lennox has been the most consistent in making quality sharp blades. There are basically two things that I look for in a blade. Speed of cutting, and durability. The most durable blades generally don't cut the fastest, and vice versa. A thicker blade will be more durable, but cut slower. Thin blades will cut fast, but be more prone to breakage and premature wear.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
534 Posts
If you have ever tried to start a plunge cut with a 1 1/4 stroke you will know what it is like to break blades. Its very hard to start a finite cut with the large strokes without butting the end of the blade. Just my opinion, but after 30 years of framing this is my advice. I have also found hardened blades for cutting nails will last a long time on the smaller tool, but not long until they break due to butting the end of the blade on the big tool. As they are hardened, they will not take getting the end butted. I don't use bimetal blades for cutting nails as they are toast after a few nails and wont cut wood anymore. I buy metal blades that are hardened.
 

·
stacker of sticks
Joined
·
8,502 Posts
Personally I just grab what ever they have on the counter that day, and don't think twice about it. Lennox, deablo, dewalt. I don't really care.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,711 Posts
If you have ever tried to start a plunge cut with a 1 1/4 stroke you will know what it is like to break blades. Its very hard to start a finite cut with the large strokes without butting the end of the blade. Just my opinion, but after 30 years of framing this is my advice.
Not sure why you need to plunge cut so often with a sawzall. Ours are all variable speed, which does make a big difference when plunge cutting. Which brand of sawzall are you using? Is it an orbital action?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
840 Posts
Hilti for any thing metal and or any other heavy duty construction. Wood and nail included.

Lenox is awesome as well as they do last and stay sharp.

Never got to use a Bosch blade but I have heard they are made in Switzerland, just like their jigsaw blades.
 

·
Registered
Remodel
Joined
·
31,645 Posts
Assuming plaster and lath, I use a Makita with Lennox bimetal, unless I'm plunge cutting for boxes or other precision plunge cuts - then it's Dewalt bimetal with the two missing teeth toward the end.

Rather than using a sawzall, I'll use a cheapo sidewinder with a demo demon blade. I bought 2 Skils for $20 each as closeouts, and they're both still cutting OK. Faster. cleaner cut, better depth control, but it does kick up some dust.

Cutting up steam pipes goes through metal cutting blades like crazy no matter what ones I try.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
168 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
We just wear through most. Using the cordless Makita, and a SuperSawzall mostly- I still have yet to pull out my recently acquired upper end Makita.. But the only other breakage which isn't really breakage is usually on a plunge cut and it hits something behind the plunge, usually on the longer blades. I have noticed the thicker, better blades like the milwaukee demo and axe blades take a few hits really well while the old cheap thin stock like I'm running out of on my old school milwaukee blades bend after one shot. I do wind up going through a large amount of nails, however, on demoing/reframing old windows and other things so it seems I need to invest more in some quality steel cutting blades over the latter. Only other deal is when I'm doing cuts into old plaster and button board and don't want to dust up a storm with a grinder, the sawzall makes some pretty good clean cuts but the concrete wears it down super fast. I'll need to give these Bosch blades a shot next time I need a Recip and see how they last to the milwaukees.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,380 Posts
I almost always try to get Lenox blades. They definately last longer. Alot longer. I do, however end up buying several Dewalt blades. The lumberyard always has them in bulk, right by the register. I have to go to Fastenal to get the Lenox blades. In my un-scientific opinion, Lenox blades last 3-5 times longer than Dewalt.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,819 Posts
Bosch and Lenox last longest for me.
I sometimes buy Dewalt when I find them on sale, they aren't as good though.
 

·
topsail's trimcat
Joined
·
5,026 Posts
we were buying milwaukee axe 12" blades by the box of 100 for years which was working out to $4 a blade compared to buying them individually for $9. however just recently the wholesaler stopped selling the big boxes.. now were stuck buying 5 packs at $45
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
168 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
woodworkbykirk said:
we were buying milwaukee axe 12" blades by the box of 100 for years which was working out to $4 a blade compared to buying them individually for $9. however just recently the wholesaler stopped selling the big boxes.. now were stuck buying 5 packs at $45
I'll need to price out the milwaukees next time I'm at the store to talk to the guy but if he can come close to their Bosch price for the 6-8"ers (not sure the actual size off-hand, 2.50ish a piece would sound really good. Thanks for the input.
 

·
Carpenter
Joined
·
56 Posts
I usually use the Milwaukee Axe or Lennox blades. They seem to last the longest in my opinion. I have used other blades but they don't seem to last as long. Maybe it's just me. As another poster said, I always figure them into the price of the job anyway. As for metal cutting blades I like the Milwaukee Torch. IMO they're the best
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,076 Posts
It's not that I don't care about the cost, but at a buck or two per minute of either fully loaded labor cost or opportunity cost for that labor, I will not watch an employee slowly abrade his way through things with a dull blade. We go through loads of blades, mostly Milwaukee and Lenox, bought in bulk when the price seems better than usual. The Dewalts don't seem to be as good.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
168 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
siberian said:
Ever check out hermanscentral.com. Hope it's ok to post this. If not please delete
Whether or not it's allowed to be posted... I don't know. But thanks. I didn't know about that website. The prices look pretty good to me, at least a great place to start comparing to what I would pay at the local place I was looking into. Although I don't know how local 10-15 mikes from my work/home area is...
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top