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Can any type of hardwood, engineered or solid 3/4 be fastened over old 3/4 hardwood floors?

OK if run perpendicular?

OK if separated by 3/8 plywood?

This question is coming to me a lot lately and I'm unsure what is ok and whats not. Could use some teaching...thanks. :thumbup:
 

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Spencer said:
Can any type of hardwood, engineered or solid 3/4 be fastened over old 3/4 hardwood floors? OK if run perpendicular? OK if separated by 3/8 plywood? This question is coming to me a lot lately and I'm unsure what is ok and whats not. Could use some teaching...thanks. :thumbup:
It won't fully answer your question and I'm not an expert but BC started a thread a day or so ago regarding a similar situation that had some good stuff.

http://www.contractortalk.com/f10/3-8-oak-over-3-4-oak-145968/#post1969503
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

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Your first original post is correct, I looked it up in the NWFA book , I don't have the latest. Also 45 doesn't need 3/8 ply. For adhesive finish has to be sanded off.
 

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Has to, my ass. To write that costs the writer absolutely nothing. It can cost you a living if you pay attention to their boilerplate drivel. They fear an attack from some greasy lawyer. The reality is stuff will stick to other stuff if there is decent adhesive in between. Anyone who has done this for very long knows that.

What I find hilarious is the fact that every finish manufacturer in the world now has some re-coat strategy that does not involve getting back down to bare wood. Hmmm. Apparently you can get their chocolate into somebody else's peanut butter no prob.

This doesn't directly cross over because there are too many variables. Most of the relevant ones haven't even been mentioned.

O well. Off to bed.
 

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Perpendicular & nail away. I'd never lay new hardwood over old hardwood running the same direction.

But truth be known, I've never laid hardwood over hardwood. The few occassions I could have, we removed the old floor to avoid the extra buildup. It doesn't take that long to tear out old wood if you've got a sawzall & toekick saw.
 

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I agree, I definitely don't have the experience to know what would work, something I couldn't risk.
I don't know if an adhesives chemicals would break down the urethane.
 

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I always went by it's ok to run perpendicular, not ok to run parallel. I have ran parallel, but I had in writing the HO acknowledge they were voiding my guarantee
 

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I always went by it's ok to run perpendicular, not ok to run parallel. I have ran parallel, but I had in writing the HO acknowledge they were voiding my guarantee
what do you do when there has been an add on and joists change direction 2 -3 times?

Been in this many times..Large homes..
1 area..but segmented usage..say kitchen,.breakfast nook to family room

all you can do is follow the majority
 

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Has to, my ass. To write that costs the writer absolutely nothing. It can cost you a living if you pay attention to their boilerplate drivel. They fear an attack from some greasy lawyer. The reality is stuff will stick to other stuff if there is decent adhesive in between. Anyone who has done this for very long knows that.

What I find hilarious is the fact that every finish manufacturer in the world now has some re-coat strategy that does not involve getting back down to bare wood. Hmmm. Apparently you can get their chocolate into somebody else's peanut butter no prob.

This doesn't directly cross over because there are too many variables. Most of the relevant ones haven't even been mentioned.

O well. Off to bed.
Coffer

while I cant agree with you more, I also cant agree with you less.you cant scoff at every guideline as if they are created just for your amusement.

guidelines have been formulated to prevent and protect.HOWEVER

they are formed by guya just like you and me.

do this 5 times this way and it is successful..it can become gospel

do it this way wrong 100 times and it fails 3 times. the 5 times right wins.

there is lots of money in guidelines..thats why they are there.
they are use for positive sales,Professional presentation and legal ramification because everything needs a liability, a responsibility and monetary retribution.

the money is made at the organization, the manufacturers, the installers, the lawyers , the media etc etc.

unfortunately, its the lowly hardworking honest working man that carried the burden and risk.
 

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what do you do when there has been an add on and joists change direction 2 -3 times?

Been in this many times..Large homes..
1 area..but segmented usage..say kitchen,.breakfast nook to family room

all you can do is follow the majority
I'm talking about new flooring over old flooring, I tend to lay the new in the opposite direction of the majority of the house. You always have variables, on any job, sometimes you have to make due with what you got. A lot of times we are polishing turds brotha. We can keep throwing out variable but the answer ain't gonna change for your original question. Also if your not comfortable laying new wood over existing, don't do the job
 

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Guidelines come about from failure. I think it was you jamestrd. That said why focus on failure, I do prepare for failure in order to find a way around it.
They're guidelines , if you think your way of doing something will work then you assume the responsibility. I think that's fair!
On site evaluation for the particulars verse general advice from a forum, to me it's gathering information , applying it correctly is the key.
 

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Guidelines come about from failure. I think it was you jamestrd. That said why focus on failure, I do prepare for failure in order to find a way around it.
They're guidelines , if you think your way of doing something will work then you assume the responsibility. I think that's fair!
On site evaluation for the particulars verse general advice from a forum, to me it's gathering information , applying it correctly is the key.
Well said.
 

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you cant scoff at every guideline as if they are created just for your amusement.


Yeah. That's why I don't. Your straw man is without merit. I do know, however, that all kinds of stupid crap gets added in these manufacturer recommendations that are put there because, "Hey, what the hell?". Installation guidelines are written with the terminally retarded in mind. The trick is in knowing what to look for when you're reading the stuff. If it's product specific, you'd better do it. In the case of hardwood, most everybody just reprints old NOFMA stuff anyway.
 

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There is way to much PROPAGANDA in all this trade organization BULL-S I use my head,practice proven construction methods and do what makes sense.

I believe that's what I said a few posts back..its all about money, and legal ramification.
There has to be a way to place blame somewhere in the event if failure.

You can rely on the installer? builder. you need an unbiased middleman.

having 2 frames with 2 different methods isn.t going anywhere in court.

Sure guidelines help and prevent..but who are they really written for? and who does the writing?

The NWFA never contacted me and asked for an opinion or approach.

so who they talking to and getting info from?

Now, I do follow guidelines installs..but sure an freaking creative out there as well.
I sure can make some sh.it work.
 

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Guidelines come about from failure. I think it was you jamestrd. That said why focus on failure, I do prepare for failure in order to find a way around it.
They're guidelines , if you think your way of doing something will work then you assume the responsibility. I think that's fair!
On site evaluation for the particulars verse general advice from a forum, to me it's gathering information , applying it correctly is the key.
Not sure where I might have said this but I do recall making statement more along the lines like:

why focus on the problem/failure when you can focus on the prevention of it.

Not sure which thread,,But Im sure it involved Coffer.;)
 

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I believe that's what I said a few posts back..its all about money, and legal ramification.

I think Dave Gobis (one of the coolest human beings I've ever had the privilege of spending time with) said it best. He said, "These are actuarial decisions." What he meant by that is that they're the same kinds of decisions insurance companies make. The same thinking goes into them, and depending on the warranty, there might actually be an insurance provider involved.
 
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