I use an 11 amp single speed portercable D-handle router and a 3/8ths single flute pilot point bit. It has worked great for us and is light enough to use on a standing wall.

 

I dunno but that's a nice looking little router.

 

I have that router and love it but it is to small for that . 2 1/4 hp is about the right size I hate it when windows are cut out with a Sawzall

 

I think you would destroy a trim router in short order. I use a PC single speed for all my window and door cutouts. I also use it for cutting arches for barrel vaults and curved wall plates. Not sure of the model number, but mine's so old, I think they discontinued it for an updated version like this one.
http://www.factoryauthorizedoutlet.com/porter-cable/porter-cable-9690lr-1-3-4-peak-hp-router

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NhgN_Z_KfB4

 

I gotta hand it to ya Lone, that's a really boring video. :laughing:

 

I have the one in Lone's link and used it with a bosch 1/2" bearing bit on 5/8 zip sheathing, around 180' of it. Worked great, got a little warm.

 

Why not mark it, chalk it, circular saw?

We cut ours out while the wall is down. But we aren't framers so what's the reason not to do it this way? Never heard of a router being used.

 

With a sharp bit, a window opening can be routed out before you can mark it and chalk lines. In addition, the sheathing is always flush with the framing, with no lippage to complicate a window or door installation.

In my video above, I was stuck with a trashed, 1/4" single flute bit. Typically, I prefer a 1/2" double flute. Reason being, the smaller bits generate much more friction (heat) than the larger diameter bits. Heat kills a cutting edge.

 

With a sharp bit, a window opening can be routed out before you can mark it and chalk lines. In addition, the sheathing is always flush with the framing, with no lippage to complicate a window or door installation.

In my video above, I was stuck with a trashed, 1/4" single flute bit. Typically, I prefer a 1/2" double flute. Reason being, the smaller bits generate much more friction (heat) than the larger diameter bits. Heat kills a cutting edge.

Cool. I was going off your speed on that one. Does it have a guide bearing on it? Or same principle as drywall router that you just feel the stud?

 

That had a guide bearing, but the bit was worn out. Smartside is pretty tough compared to CDX or OSB too. You can easily knock out a 3046 window opening in under 30 seconds with a good bit.

 

We don't use a router on ours. We tried it once and I just wasn't that impressed. Another single use tool to drag out of the truck, bits to replace, etc. I generally stripe the opening with my pencil dragging my tape along. Rarely do I leave one hanging, and if I do, I shave it right then. We rarely set up a miter saw for framing either. I know, I know, most of the framers do, but we do just fine with a circular saw.

 

This is an excellent point, although it's great to use a specialty tool for every application saving time and space by not carrying a one-trick-pony tool can save time in the long run.

 

We don't use a router on ours. We tried it once and I just wasn't that impressed. Another single use tool to drag out of the truck, bits to replace, etc. I generally stripe the opening with my pencil dragging my tape along. Rarely do I leave one hanging, and if I do, I shave it right then. We rarely set up a miter saw for framing either. I know, I know, most of the framers do, but we do just fine with a circular saw.

We have a router with us all the time anyway since we do lots of stuff other than framing. Might as well give it a shot.

The miter saw thing is interesting. Not being a framer but having framed a house and quite a few additions as well as plenty of other crap, I feel like it's only faster for small repeat cuts. For framing a soffit in a basement with 9" studs for example. But cutting all the studs to length. I feel I can mark them on the horses and circular saw faster with less effort than moving everything to the miter.

 

That is true. I will occasionally break one out on the last day or two to punch out with if we have a lot of soffits. On the few jobs that we had to cut hundreds of studs, I did bring one for that.

 

With a flush cutting solid carbide spiral bit you might get away with a 1 hp router but I don't think any palm router is going to last long cutting out windows . I think I've seen a 3 flute bit with a 1/4'' shank but not sure if I dreamt it .

 

We always used a router, I think we used a porter cable 3.25 or 3.5 HP. Used to router the floor sheathing around bay windows or short runs,45's etc.

We have burned up smaller routers, but that was due to a dull bit AND dull operator.

I don't think a trim router would last one house, I also think you would break those 1/4 " shanks left and right.

 

This is an excellent point, although it's great to use a specialty tool for every application saving time and space by not carrying a one-trick-pony tool can save time in the long run.

That's the most profound, grown up thing I've ever heard you say... Lol.

 

Uhh thanks...

 

As a trim carpenter, let me just say:

"What you framers do with routers is sacrilege!"

On a truthful note:

I don't think I would try this with anything less than a 1 3/4 HP, and a sharp 1/2" upspiral bit.

 

Wow a lot of responses. I posted the question and then went outside to read and fell asleep.

I think I'll go with a smaller 2 1/4HP D handle router when this guy dies. I have tried 1/4" bits before and they were great, but broke easily so that is a good point.

As to cutting out with a router vs a saw....I won't get into that debate anymore. It is a no brainer for me having done it a long time with a saw before switching to a router.

Next frame I'll take video of the router cutting sheathing. Its just too easy and fast.

BTW we are having way too much fun with the GoPro!! http://instagram.com/p/rlZC0yq-8k/?modal=true

http://instagram.com/p/rlYaMqK-7s/?modal=true

 

Why do you frame with out a chop saw . It is so much faster to cut 3 or 4 pieces at a time .

 

I disagree. When you count up the time setting up and breaking down vs how much time you save cutting multiples, I think it's a wash at best. Maybe if your doing strictly cookie cutters it might save a little time.

 

No cookie cutter 4000 sf plus 3 minutes of set up time is not worth it for you it is for me . It is so much faster to cut parts for Windows and doors .

 

I really don't see how its faster unless you suck with a circular saw. plus you gotta set up a table for the chopbox. just bring a circular saw to wherever the material is and cut it on your foot then spread the pieces out to wherever. you don't have to move the material twice.

 

I must be in the minority here: Recip saw from the inside, slow start to plunge through and then use the framing as the guide during the cut.

Fast and easy in my book

 

This is how we do it.

 

I think the router method really shines when the siding with sheet goods. The outrigger cut outs can be made without plunge cutting or cleaning the corners with a jig saw.

I just use a crappy spade tip bit w/o a collar. Im sure there are better options, but ive had the collared ones overheat and somewhat explode.

 

I read a thread on different router bits but can't seem to find it again. I have always used a bearing bit. I am wanting to try a fluted pilot bit.

 

I never use one for cutting openings. It looks great if I did more of it. I would also think a spiral bit may wear better than a fluted one.

I have that little Dewalt and the plunge attachment. Its very nice. Soft start too. I dont think this is the correct apllication for it.

 

This is the bit we've always used. These bits last a long time if you don't hit any staples or nail heads.

 

This is the bit we've always used. These bits last a long time if you don't hit any staples or nail heads.

That's what I use as well. The router makes the openings idiot proof, a sawzall works but it's easy to butcher if the wrong guy does it.

 

That is the bit I use

 

We use that bit in some pretty old Porter Cable routers. The bits always last a few months at least when no one tries to cut metal with them.