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As a lot of you know, I am a huge fan of using a router on window/door openings. We have a 3 1/4 HP Bosh router that we use for this and 1/2" bits.

As our Bosch is aging, I wondering about using a smaller guy like this

We are only really cutting 1/2" OSB or plywood material and I was thinking of that router with a 1/4" bit.

So my question is, what do you think of a palm router and then what kind of 1/4" router bit?

What is wearing out on the Bosch we have is the springs and plunging action.
 

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I use an 11 amp single speed portercable D-handle router and a 3/8ths single flute pilot point bit. It has worked great for us and is light enough to use on a standing wall.
 

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I dunno but that's a nice looking little router.
 

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I have that router and love it but it is to small for that . 2 1/4 hp is about the right size I hate it when windows are cut out with a Sawzall
 

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I think you would destroy a trim router in short order. I use a PC single speed for all my window and door cutouts. I also use it for cutting arches for barrel vaults and curved wall plates. Not sure of the model number, but mine's so old, I think they discontinued it for an updated version like this one.
http://www.factoryauthorizedoutlet.com/porter-cable/porter-cable-9690lr-1-3-4-peak-hp-router

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NhgN_Z_KfB4
I gotta hand it to ya Lone, that's a really boring video. :laughing:
 

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I have the one in Lone's link and used it with a bosch 1/2" bearing bit on 5/8 zip sheathing, around 180' of it. Worked great, got a little warm.
 

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Why not mark it, chalk it, circular saw?

We cut ours out while the wall is down. But we aren't framers so what's the reason not to do it this way? Never heard of a router being used.
 

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Why not mark it, chalk it, circular saw?

We cut ours out while the wall is down. But we aren't framers so what's the reason not to do it this way? Never heard of a router being used.
With a sharp bit, a window opening can be routed out before you can mark it and chalk lines. In addition, the sheathing is always flush with the framing, with no lippage to complicate a window or door installation.

In my video above, I was stuck with a trashed, 1/4" single flute bit. Typically, I prefer a 1/2" double flute. Reason being, the smaller bits generate much more friction (heat) than the larger diameter bits. Heat kills a cutting edge.
 

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I gotta hand it to ya Lone, that's a really boring video. :laughing:
Can't be a rock star 24/7 you know. A man needs to recharge his batteries every once'st in awhile.:laughing:
 

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Why not mark it, chalk it, circular saw?

We cut ours out while the wall is down. But we aren't framers so what's the reason not to do it this way? Never heard of a router being used.
Cause then you have to mark it and chalk it.

Its annoying, to me anyways, running sill sealer tape on roughly cut openings, or setting window when the cutouts have plywood overhangs that weren't cut perfectly. Router cuts it perfect every time.
 

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loneframer said:
With a sharp bit, a window opening can be routed out before you can mark it and chalk lines. In addition, the sheathing is always flush with the framing, with no lippage to complicate a window or door installation.

In my video above, I was stuck with a trashed, 1/4" single flute bit. Typically, I prefer a 1/2" double flute. Reason being, the smaller bits generate much more friction (heat) than the larger diameter bits. Heat kills a cutting edge.
Cool. I was going off your speed on that one. Does it have a guide bearing on it? Or same principle as drywall router that you just feel the stud?
 

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That had a guide bearing, but the bit was worn out. Smartside is pretty tough compared to CDX or OSB too. You can easily knock out a 3046 window opening in under 30 seconds with a good bit.
 

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We don't use a router on ours. We tried it once and I just wasn't that impressed. Another single use tool to drag out of the truck, bits to replace, etc. I generally stripe the opening with my pencil dragging my tape along. Rarely do I leave one hanging, and if I do, I shave it right then. We rarely set up a miter saw for framing either. I know, I know, most of the framers do, but we do just fine with a circular saw.
 

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Warren said:
We don't use a router on ours. We tried it once and I just wasn't that impressed. Another single use tool to drag out of the truck, bits to replace, etc. I generally stripe the opening with my pencil dragging my tape along. Rarely do I leave one hanging, and if I do, I shave it right then. We rarely set up a miter saw for framing either. I know, I know, most of the framers do, but we do just fine with a circular saw.
We have a router with us all the time anyway since we do lots of stuff other than framing. Might as well give it a shot.

The miter saw thing is interesting. Not being a framer but having framed a house and quite a few additions as well as plenty of other crap, I feel like it's only faster for small repeat cuts. For framing a soffit in a basement with 9" studs for example. But cutting all the studs to length. I feel I can mark them on the horses and circular saw faster with less effort than moving everything to the miter.
 

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We have a router with us all the time anyway since we do lots of stuff other than framing. Might as well give it a shot.

The miter saw thing is interesting. Not being a framer but having framed a house and quite a few additions as well as plenty of other crap, I feel like it's only faster for small repeat cuts. For framing a soffit in a basement with 9" studs for example. But cutting all the studs to length. I feel I can mark them on the horses and circular saw faster with less effort than moving everything to the miter.
That is true. I will occasionally break one out on the last day or two to punch out with if we have a lot of soffits. On the few jobs that we had to cut hundreds of studs, I did bring one for that.
 

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With a flush cutting solid carbide spiral bit you might get away with a 1 hp router but I don't think any palm router is going to last long cutting out windows . I think I've seen a 3 flute bit with a 1/4'' shank but not sure if I dreamt it .
 

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We don't use a router on ours. We tried it once and I just wasn't that impressed. Another single use tool to drag out of the truck, bits to replace, etc. I generally stripe the opening with my pencil dragging my tape along. Rarely do I leave one hanging, and if I do, I shave it right then. We rarely set up a miter saw for framing either. I know, I know, most of the framers do, but we do just fine with a circular saw.
This is an excellent point, although it's great to use a specialty tool for every application saving time and space by not carrying a one-trick-pony tool can save time in the long run.
 

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We always used a router, I think we used a porter cable 3.25 or 3.5 HP. Used to router the floor sheathing around bay windows or short runs,45's etc.

We have burned up smaller routers, but that was due to a dull bit AND dull operator.

I don't think a trim router would last one house, I also think you would break those 1/4 " shanks left and right.
 

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Inner10 said:
This is an excellent point, although it's great to use a specialty tool for every application saving time and space by not carrying a one-trick-pony tool can save time in the long run.
That's the most profound, grown up thing I've ever heard you say... Lol.
 
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