Is this the one you torn down because of lumber / timber problems? Same floor plan , is so should be easy being did it once already.:laughing:

Seems to me things go faster for me if I did it once aready.

 

I'm pretty sure this is the same job. But, it was torn down not due to lumber timber problems, but homeowner idiocy problems.

 

I think you might want to consider cutting your losses. There is clearly something wrong here. :laughing:

 

I haven't lost any money on it . I did it the first time cost plus, and I am doing it this time the same way. But I am gonna keep him on a short leash this time.
I look at it as a challenge, and I trust him to pay me.

 

I despise doing things twice, paid or not.

You gonna come out ok on this deal?

 

We make it nice because we do it twice.

 

Run run run!!!

 

There's just something that is so satisfying about a customer that will actually pay you to fix their mistakes.

 

Nothing wrong with a double dip. :thumbsup:

 

wow.....that seems insane

 

I get to do one twice too.....not as big though, we framed and trimmed an addition this summer, and when they were finishing the floor the house caught fire..

We dont get to re-frame too much, but we have to remove and replace all the doors and windows and re-trim the place

 

The rafters are TJI this time. ?Should I go with a regular ridge at the top or a beam under? I told the architect that I thought the under beam would be the easier thing.

 

Why are you tearing it down and rebuilding? I read through twice but didn't catch it.

 

the homeowner didn't like it the first time
He was afraid it might fall down or some thing. It is hard to explain.

 

The rafters are TJI this time. ?Should I go with a regular ridge at the top or a beam under? I told the architect that I thought the under beam would be the easier thing.

Beam under. Makes ventilation easier too. Rip some cant strips for the angle and nail em down.

 

On the job we are framing, we have both. I think its easier to put the ridge under. Thing I like about using I-Joists it not using a birdsmouth.

 

the architect is giving me the choice of using a normal top plate with a beveled plate on top or a normal top plate and a simpson variable pitch hanger doohickey, . I think right now I like the beveled plate thingee.

 

Rip the cant strip bevel out of wood. You want that area solid for drywall anyway.

 

I like the idea of the cant strip, too, but if you still have to put on some kind of tiedown strap, then I think the hanger is more efficient. Doesn't look like you could use timberloks for that.

 

We did. Down though the bottom flange into the plates. Obviously you would have to get approval from your local building department.

 

I started building the walls

 

Nice day for it!

 

Ive used the Simpson adjustable pitch hangers with TJI rafters a bunch, they work good and are quick to put on.

 

Here is the pile of timbers.

 

I hope this works

 

 

I used a chain to hook this wall up so I could adjust the balance when I lifted . It worked out well. I have 3 other similar walls that I can't reach with my machine, so I will use a crane to raise them. He is gonna have a better house this time around.

 

 

Some nice clean framing Nucklehead. Is that a steel moment frame? And *gasp!* more Doug Fir! :laughing:

What's with the double sill thing in the back window? And clean up your mess man! :laughing:

You and I have the same worm drive.

 

That was a mistake by the hired help.

 

Some nice clean framing Nucklehead. Is that a steel moment frame? And *gasp!* more Doug Fir! :laughing:

What's with the double sill thing in the back window? And clean up your mess man! :laughing:

You and I have the same worm drive.

That's a mag 77- it's THE ONLY worm drive